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Dark Star V, 5.10c Climber's Log

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Dow WilliamsDark Star  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2015

Dow Williams

With Steph A. We had no worries finding that upper 5.10a roof pitch. Both those pitches on the 2nd tower seemed easy to follow via the old topo for us, straight up left of the arete. We were on the summit at 2:30, back at camp by 5pm, less than 12 hr day for us. The approach to camping at the lakes is less than 3 at a casual pace, not 4-8 as Chris has in ST. I combined those first two pitches, can't imagine why one wouldn't. I led the 3rd pitch on its own. Then I combined everything else (350'+/-) via simul climbing until I was out of the sun and into the base of the chimney. Gave that pitch to Steph, led one more easy pitch after that, then approach shoes went on and we soloed everything else in approach shoes except for those before mentioned two pitches on the 2nd tower. Def go to the summit, I guess some don't once they hit the ridge line, does not take much xtra and is a pretty cool summit as summits go. The summit register is gone (2015). Really standard rack, I placed no wires. Took an extra micro piece for those first 3 pitches, but did not use it. We did not take #3 nor ever needed it. We only took one rap on the route (ridge), we did down climb past several others.
Posted Jul 17, 2015 7:16 pm

zoomlocoawesome route  Sucess!


i wanted to climb this route for several reasons. 1- it's dark star. 2-it's named after a grateful dead song. 3-it's in peter croft's big 4 sierra climbs. 4- it's a classic and favorite of pullharder.org climbers 5- it's the sierra's longest technical route and 5- well, it's dark star. The first buttress is incredible. the rest is just long. but the summit is also incredible...
Posted Aug 12, 2011 11:56 pm

Vitaliy M.In 12 hours  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2011

Vitaliy M.

People usually say it takes 12 hours to 2 days to complete this route. I am happy it took us 12 hours : )
It was a nice warm day, with a very well rounded partner. I learned a lot from him and had a lot of fun.
Posted Aug 12, 2011 11:31 am

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