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mountaineer17Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: July 5, 2003  Sucess!


Went to sleep the night before at 2am in -40 degrees farenheit. The summit day was suprisingly easy compared to the day before, from ABC to The "eagle's nest" (camp 18,500 ft). Gotta say pig hill SUCKS!!!!
Posted May 23, 2005 8:11 pm

brutus of wydeRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: May-June 1994  Sucess!

brutus of wyde

Summitted around 6 pm on 01 June 1994 with Jane Koski.
Posted Apr 12, 2005 12:33 pm

John ChristieRoute Climbed: Wonder Lake - North Side via Mckinley/Harper Glaciers Date Climbed: July 30, 1973  Sucess!
Look forward to hearing of others who have done the North route. Ours retraced Stuck's original, almost 60 years to the day, so we called it the Diamond Jubilee Expedition. 4 of us. 39 days to summit - 2 storms - lots of thrills...and many memories. Team mate Dave Carroll went back and was lost along with 3 others on South route in about 1981.

Is there a list of ascents by year/route?
Posted Mar 28, 2005 6:43 pm

GWRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: May 2002  Sucess!


Summitted on beautiful day. Used Alpine Ascents Intl. guide service. Not fun but definitely challenging and adventurous. Made a great movie about our ascent.


Posted Dec 20, 2004 7:30 pm

Brice NeugebauerRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 28 June 2004  Sucess!

Brice Neugebauer

Last of my fifty state high points. Excellent trip....thoughts of returning to try Foraker.
Posted Dec 14, 2004 4:38 am

jwuiteRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: June 22 1999  Sucess!


We had a perfect 12 hr weather window for our summit attempt.
Posted Oct 15, 2004 12:32 pm

ironmikeRoute Climbed: West Rib Complete Date Climbed: June 3, 1992  Sucess!
It was the deadliest year ever on Denali. Day after day we watched the buzzard-like helicopters carry out the body bags. After bagging on the Cassin due to bad snow conditions and dead Italians, Ziggy and I decided last minute on the West Rib route. A beautiful, arduous, and mind-sharpening alpine style ascent. Less than 2 weeks later we summited on a cloudless day - one of the finest days in my alpine career. 48 hours later it was beer and steak in Talkeetna and off to other adventures.
Posted Oct 14, 2004 1:28 am

GilbertRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 14 june 2004  Sucess!


Together with my friend Jan we reached the summit on 14 june 04. There where very strong winds on the summit and the summit ridge. Several times the wind knocked us down and we had to lay down on the ridge. We only stayed 1 minute on the summit because of the winds. We where the only two that summited that day.

Beautiful mountain!
Posted Jul 28, 2004 5:56 am

RussellRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: July 5,2004  Sucess!


15 days up 2 down A great trip with 5 climbers from across the USA.Good weather conditions and good company every day on the mountain.Smoke from forest fires at 14,000 camp only dark spot of whole trip.
Posted Jul 24, 2004 4:11 pm

Samuli MansikkaRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: June 26th 2004  Sucess!

Samuli Mansikka

First summit attempt had to be cancelled 90m below the summit due to extremely strong winds on the summit ridge. Summitted in perfect weather after a couple of days of resting ang waiting for the right moment to sneak on the top.

Night temperatures in high camp were around -20 C and due to an unusually warm june the lower Kahiltna Glacier was badly crevassed when we descended.

Hint: Prepare to assemble some sort of brake system to your sled for the descent so that it does not slide on your heels. Remember to rig it reasonably so that you will not hurt yourself badly in case of a severe crevasse fall!
Posted Jul 6, 2004 3:49 pm

bobpickeringRoute Climbed: West Rib Date Climbed: June 19, 1995  Sucess!


Please see my trip report.
Posted Jun 7, 2004 10:37 pm

kovarpaRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: May 26, 2004  Sucess!


I had great time. Best part - 16 Ridge. Made it to the summit in 12 days, 2 days down, with all fingers and toes intact. We were pretty lucky with weather, bad weather days were our rest days anyway. I will post a trip report soon.
Posted Jun 4, 2004 12:25 am

meepersRoute Climbed: West Butt Date Climbed: May 2003  Sucess!


Great mountain

We had bad weather and worse luck, but lived to climb another day, and will return
Posted Dec 19, 2003 3:40 pm

grynningRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 3 june - 21 july 2003  Sucess!


We summited on the 19th of july in breathtaking good weather after being tent bound in Genet Basin for over a week in a rare and powerful summer storm. Me and two of my friends skied down from the summit in the most beautiful sunset I have ever experienced. Success for our norwegian/swedish expedition !
Posted Oct 3, 2003 6:37 pm

mickymac1Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 6/01


Team summitted in 12 days!
Posted Oct 1, 2003 1:35 pm

7summitsRoute Climbed: West Butt Date Climbed: 22 june 2003  Sucess!


the 2nd time up this beautiful mountain, this time in 11 days from Talkeetna.

See pics on the denali pages on 7summits.com
Posted Sep 6, 2003 9:37 am

gatoRoute Climbed: Upper West RIb Date Climbed: May 22 - June 7, 2003  Sucess!


The trip of a lifetime! We reached the summit in 14 days, thanks to a well-timed weather window. The Upper West Rib is fantastic, but much steeper than we had anticipated. Only two of our team of three reached the summit, but we all made it back without frostbite or injury, so it was a successful expedition on all fronts.
Posted Jul 8, 2003 1:27 pm

dabenderRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: June 12, 2003  Sucess!


Frequent storms in early June concentrated traffic into some tight weather windows. Over 100 climbers attempted the fixed ropes in deteriorating conditions on Sunday, June 8. The parties that made it to 17,200 hunkered down until Thursday June 12 which was beautiful - warm(ish), low wind, spectacular visibility. Very good success rate on that day. We left 17,200 at 1 PM Friday and went all the way through to 7,200 base camp at 5:00 AM Saturday.
Posted Jun 16, 2003 10:04 pm

wallspeckRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: July 1988


Well, we actually didn't reach the summit. But it was about as close as one can get and not get there. I was with Chuck Blackwell on the 4th of July in good weather. Crossed the football field and made a very steep left leaning ascent of the last headwall to the crest. I thought we were on top but looking left the real top was a little further. We did a full ropelength along the summit ridge and I had to crawl because of ataxia. Must have been only 15 or 20 feet below the very top and maybe 200 feet away along ridge, but I turned back because the ataxia scared me. Upon reaching Denali Pass I was fine again. It was the proper decision and I don't regret it.

Returned in 1999 to guide a group. Turned them around at Denali Pass because we were moving too slow.

Returned again in 2001 to attempt Cassin Ridge. We retreated from 3 pitches above Cassin Ledge. I was bummed and didn't want to quit.

Returned again in 2005 and reached the balcony on the West Rib. A big storm moving in drove us down just in the nick of time. Thank god for sat phones!! We would have been in hell if we'd been caught up there.
Posted May 12, 2003 11:39 pm

Pencil PusherRoute Climbed: Up the Butt Date Climbed: June 28, 2002  Sucess!

Pencil Pusher

The trip of a lifetime. Ginger was the resident-mountain-hottie.
Posted Mar 3, 2003 2:21 pm

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