Denali (Mount McKinley) Climber's Log
[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
|jwuite||Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: June 22 1999|
|We had a perfect 12 hr weather window for our summit attempt.|
|Posted Oct 15, 2004 12:32 pm|
|ironmike||Route Climbed: West Rib Complete Date Climbed: June 3, 1992|
|It was the deadliest year ever on Denali. Day after day we watched the buzzard-like helicopters carry out the body bags. After bagging on the Cassin due to bad snow conditions and dead Italians, Ziggy and I decided last minute on the West Rib route. A beautiful, arduous, and mind-sharpening alpine style ascent. Less than 2 weeks later we summited on a cloudless day - one of the finest days in my alpine career. 48 hours later it was beer and steak in Talkeetna and off to other adventures.|
|Posted Oct 14, 2004 1:28 am|
|Gilbert||Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 14 june 2004|
|Together with my friend Jan we reached the summit on 14 june 04. There where very strong winds on the summit and the summit ridge. Several times the wind knocked us down and we had to lay down on the ridge. We only stayed 1 minute on the summit because of the winds. We where the only two that summited that day.|
|Posted Jul 28, 2004 5:56 am|
|Russell||Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: July 5,2004|
|15 days up 2 down A great trip with 5 climbers from across the USA.Good weather conditions and good company every day on the mountain.Smoke from forest fires at 14,000 camp only dark spot of whole trip.|
|Posted Jul 24, 2004 4:11 pm|
|Samuli Mansikka||Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: June 26th 2004|
|First summit attempt had to be cancelled 90m below the summit due to extremely strong winds on the summit ridge. Summitted in perfect weather after a couple of days of resting ang waiting for the right moment to sneak on the top.|
Night temperatures in high camp were around -20 C and due to an unusually warm june the lower Kahiltna Glacier was badly crevassed when we descended.
Hint: Prepare to assemble some sort of brake system to your sled for the descent so that it does not slide on your heels. Remember to rig it reasonably so that you will not hurt yourself badly in case of a severe crevasse fall!
|Posted Jul 6, 2004 3:49 pm|
|bobpickering||Route Climbed: West Rib Date Climbed: June 19, 1995|
|Please see my trip report.|
|Posted Jun 7, 2004 10:37 pm|
|kovarpa||Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: May 26, 2004|
|I had great time. Best part - 16 Ridge. Made it to the summit in 12 days, 2 days down, with all fingers and toes intact. We were pretty lucky with weather, bad weather days were our rest days anyway. I will post a trip report soon.|
|Posted Jun 4, 2004 12:25 am|
|meepers||Route Climbed: West Butt Date Climbed: May 2003|
We had bad weather and worse luck, but lived to climb another day, and will return
|Posted Dec 19, 2003 3:40 pm|
|grynning||Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 3 june - 21 july 2003|
|We summited on the 19th of july in breathtaking good weather after being tent bound in Genet Basin for over a week in a rare and powerful summer storm. Me and two of my friends skied down from the summit in the most beautiful sunset I have ever experienced. Success for our norwegian/swedish expedition !|
|Posted Oct 3, 2003 6:37 pm|
|mickymac1||Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 6/01|
|Team summitted in 12 days!|
|Posted Oct 1, 2003 1:35 pm|
|7summits||Route Climbed: West Butt Date Climbed: 22 june 2003|
|the 2nd time up this beautiful mountain, this time in 11 days from Talkeetna.|
See pics on the denali pages on 7summits.com
|Posted Sep 6, 2003 9:37 am|
|gato||Route Climbed: Upper West RIb Date Climbed: May 22 - June 7, 2003|
|The trip of a lifetime! We reached the summit in 14 days, thanks to a well-timed weather window. The Upper West Rib is fantastic, but much steeper than we had anticipated. Only two of our team of three reached the summit, but we all made it back without frostbite or injury, so it was a successful expedition on all fronts.|
|Posted Jul 8, 2003 1:27 pm|
|dabender||Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: June 12, 2003|
|Frequent storms in early June concentrated traffic into some tight weather windows. Over 100 climbers attempted the fixed ropes in deteriorating conditions on Sunday, June 8. The parties that made it to 17,200 hunkered down until Thursday June 12 which was beautiful - warm(ish), low wind, spectacular visibility. Very good success rate on that day. We left 17,200 at 1 PM Friday and went all the way through to 7,200 base camp at 5:00 AM Saturday.|
|Posted Jun 16, 2003 10:04 pm|
|wallspeck||Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: July 1988|
|Well, we actually didn't reach the summit. But it was about as close as one can get and not get there. I was with Chuck Blackwell on the 4th of July in good weather. Crossed the football field and made a very steep left leaning ascent of the last headwall to the crest. I thought we were on top but looking left the real top was a little further. We did a full ropelength along the summit ridge and I had to crawl because of ataxia. Must have been only 15 or 20 feet below the very top and maybe 200 feet away along ridge, but I turned back because the ataxia scared me. Upon reaching Denali Pass I was fine again. It was the proper decision and I don't regret it. |
Returned in 1999 to guide a group. Turned them around at Denali Pass because we were moving too slow.
Returned again in 2001 to attempt Cassin Ridge. We retreated from 3 pitches above Cassin Ledge. I was bummed and didn't want to quit.
Returned again in 2005 and reached the balcony on the West Rib. A big storm moving in drove us down just in the nick of time. Thank god for sat phones!! We would have been in hell if we'd been caught up there.
|Posted May 12, 2003 11:39 pm|
|Pencil Pusher||Route Climbed: Up the Butt Date Climbed: June 28, 2002|
|The trip of a lifetime. Ginger was the resident-mountain-hottie.|
|Posted Mar 3, 2003 2:21 pm|
|Gernot||Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 10th June 2002|
|This was a real experience. First attempt at June 7th, did not work out because of real strong storm at high altitudes. We went back to Medical Camp. |
At June 10th I made it, strong storm again, white out and real low temperature at the summit, my new lithium batteries where only able to take 2 pictures.
|Posted Jan 13, 2003 4:34 am|
|richardpattison||Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: Friday 29th June 2001|
|Via the West Buttress route. We were so fortunate to climb in June with great weather throughout, the 16 days were absolutely fantastic, a real experience of a lifetime. The scenery was totally amazing, far far better than you can ever imagine it could be.|
Even though this is the easiest route on the mountain, it's very important to train hard and be in super shape for the climb. The sled hauling early on can be dreadful, an exhausting week pulling your sled around the glacier. A good training technique for this is to drag a tyre around at home. Once you get to 14200 ft, the route is magnificent and the ridge leading to 17k is breath taking. The earlier you get to 17k, the more days you'll have to wait for a summit opportunity. Good luck...
|Posted Nov 21, 2002 6:50 am|
|asmrz||Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: April 1983|
|Took 15 days to climb the big one in April 1983. We had superb conditions with 13 out of 15 days clear, with temperatures down to -37 F. Took 11 days RT from Kahiltna Glacier to the top and back and four days of traveling from/to Los Angeles.|
|Posted Nov 15, 2002 9:34 pm|
|Ascending Path||Route Climbed: The W. Butt Date Climbed: '97,'98, '00,'01,'02|
|What an amazing mountain!|
We have guided this peak 8 times.
Please visit our website for more info:
|Posted Oct 31, 2002 2:05 pm|
|brandon||Route Climbed: West Butt Date Climbed: June 25, 2000|
|Crowded, but great. 15 days round trip, amazing weather for our summit day. |
Then spent a month travelling around Alaska where everyone treated us so nice. A woman loaned us her car for a week, then when we went to Anchorage, told us where her ex keeps the extra key to his house, where we hung out for a few days. Seakayaking on the coast. Make this a long trip and visit the last wild places in the US.
|Posted Sep 18, 2001 4:25 pm|