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wallspeckRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: July 1988


Well, we actually didn't reach the summit. But it was about as close as one can get and not get there. I was with Chuck Blackwell on the 4th of July in good weather. Crossed the football field and made a very steep left leaning ascent of the last headwall to the crest. I thought we were on top but looking left the real top was a little further. We did a full ropelength along the summit ridge and I had to crawl because of ataxia. Must have been only 15 or 20 feet below the very top and maybe 200 feet away along ridge, but I turned back because the ataxia scared me. Upon reaching Denali Pass I was fine again. It was the proper decision and I don't regret it.

Returned in 1999 to guide a group. Turned them around at Denali Pass because we were moving too slow.

Returned again in 2001 to attempt Cassin Ridge. We retreated from 3 pitches above Cassin Ledge. I was bummed and didn't want to quit.

Returned again in 2005 and reached the balcony on the West Rib. A big storm moving in drove us down just in the nick of time. Thank god for sat phones!! We would have been in hell if we'd been caught up there.
Posted May 12, 2003 11:39 pm

Pencil PusherRoute Climbed: Up the Butt Date Climbed: June 28, 2002  Sucess!

Pencil Pusher

The trip of a lifetime. Ginger was the resident-mountain-hottie.
Posted Mar 3, 2003 2:21 pm

GernotRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 10th June 2002  Sucess!
This was a real experience. First attempt at June 7th, did not work out because of real strong storm at high altitudes. We went back to Medical Camp.

At June 10th I made it, strong storm again, white out and real low temperature at the summit, my new lithium batteries where only able to take 2 pictures.
Posted Jan 13, 2003 4:34 am

richardpattisonRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: Friday 29th June 2001  Sucess!


Via the West Buttress route. We were so fortunate to climb in June with great weather throughout, the 16 days were absolutely fantastic, a real experience of a lifetime. The scenery was totally amazing, far far better than you can ever imagine it could be.

Even though this is the easiest route on the mountain, it's very important to train hard and be in super shape for the climb. The sled hauling early on can be dreadful, an exhausting week pulling your sled around the glacier. A good training technique for this is to drag a tyre around at home. Once you get to 14200 ft, the route is magnificent and the ridge leading to 17k is breath taking. The earlier you get to 17k, the more days you'll have to wait for a summit opportunity. Good luck...
Posted Nov 21, 2002 6:50 am

asmrzRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: May 1983  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 11, 1983


It took the six of us from Southern California 11 days to climb the big one in May 1983. We had superb conditions with 9 out of 11 days clear, with temperatures down to -37 F. Took 11 days RT from Kahiltna Glacier to the top and back and four days of traveling from/to Los Angeles.
There were 25 people on the mountain, but we were the only US party.
Posted Nov 15, 2002 9:34 pm

Ascending PathRoute Climbed: The W. Butt Date Climbed: '97,'98, '00,'01,'02  Sucess!

Ascending Path

What an amazing mountain!

We have guided this peak 8 times.

Please visit our website for more info:


Posted Oct 31, 2002 2:05 pm

brandonRoute Climbed: West Butt Date Climbed: June 25, 2000  Sucess!


Crowded, but great. 15 days round trip, amazing weather for our summit day.

Then spent a month travelling around Alaska where everyone treated us so nice. A woman loaned us her car for a week, then when we went to Anchorage, told us where her ex keeps the extra key to his house, where we hung out for a few days. Seakayaking on the coast. Make this a long trip and visit the last wild places in the US.
Posted Sep 18, 2001 4:25 pm

Alan ArnetteRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: July 2001  Sucess!

Alan Arnette

This mountain should not be underestimated, especially if it is your first big climb. The wildcard will be the weather if you are physically prepared. We were turned back at Denali Pass by 100 mph winds adn closing weather. I have many pictures on my web site at www.alanarnette.com
Posted Aug 1, 2001 9:49 am

7summitsRoute Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: 16- may-2000  Sucess!


It took us 13 days to get up this beautiful but cold and dangerous mountain. Check out the 7 summits site for a complete tripreport and all the info you need. Also send Denali eCards.

Always rope up as there are too many hidden crevasses. Enjoy the climbing itself, don't focus on the summit only. Shield yourself from the extreme cold and you will find yourself on one of the most beautiful places on earth.

Keep climbing,


7 summits.com
Posted Mar 30, 2001 2:32 am

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