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Desni slap pod Prisojnikom, WI4+, 150m
Route

Desni slap pod Prisojnikom, WI4+, 150m

 
Desni slap pod Prisojnikom, WI4+, 150m

Page Type: Route

Location: Julian Alps, Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.43159°N / 13.76171°E

Route Type: Mountaineering, Ice Climbing

Season: Winter

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: II/4+, 150 m. WI 90°, 60°-80°

Number of Pitches: 4

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: borutbk

Created/Edited: Mar 12, 2011 / Aug 25, 2011

Object ID: 703932

Hits: 871 

Page Score: 88.25% - 16 Votes 

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Overview

Desni slap means right waterfall and it is the one the most to the right (ha ha) of the main WI group (primary image).
Very close to the Koča na gozdu mountain hut (accessible by car), the many (ice) waterfalls called Slapovi pod Prisojnikom are on the foot of Prisojnik's NW face.

Slavko (Slavc) Svetičič made the FA in 1983.
This WI line is a classic "around Vršič" and it is often climbed. And there are possible escapes (to the right) if conditions seem to get poorer as one goes.

> Beware: especially by new snow, the line and even more the descent are avalanche prone!

Getting There

The asfalted road that crosses the Vršič pass links the localities of Bovec (S) and Kranjska Gora (N). Click the coords in the primary info above for details. The road is well maintained, in winter as well. Nevertheless, in wintertime it often is obstructed by too much snow, in which case on the N side (Kranjska Gora) one may often only drive to the Koča na gozdu mountain hut.
The Koča na gozdu mountain hut (1226 m) is just below Prisojnik's NW face. The hut is open in the summer, and from Friday 9am to Sunday 10pm -year round. (Tel: +386(0)51 626 641 and +386(0)41 682 704)
Kranjska Gora is on the Ljubljana-Kranj-Jesenice-Rateče/Planica bus line, on the main road along the Sava river, in the upper left corner of Slovenia. May also be reached from Tarvisio, Italy, and from Bovec -of course only if the Vršič pass road is open.

Approach (20 min): upstream just behind the hut, split off the road left hand, following one of the signposts (Hanzova pot, Prisojnik). The marked trail is usually allready trodden. Soon out of the forest, we get a full view of Prisojnik NW. This is the upper most part of the Pišnica valley, called Suha Pišnica.
Lambada is the first candle in sight and we head to the right, to the main WI group.

Route Description

 
Desni slap pod Prisojnikom, WI4+, 150 m
 










Pitch 1: 45°, 60°.
Pitch 2: 60°, 80°. From belay 2, possible exit right hand if the following pitch is in bad condition.
Pitch 3: 90°, shorter pitch. From belay 3, we may exit right hand.
Pitch 4: 45°/50°.
Pitch 5: 70°.
Descent: walk off to the right (pine bushes) and down the ravine (up to 45° snow).

Essential Gear

Usual gear.
Webbing (on rock formations) and screws for the belays.

External Links

Avalanche Survey
Tips for Safe Trips to the Mountains
Zimski vzponi, Winter ascents.
Vršič, alpine association climbing guide.

Images

Main groupDesni slap pod Prisojnikom, WI4+, 150 mBelow PrisojnikComfortable start



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