Made this climb early in the morning with Craig. The day was perfect. We ran/hiked up to Albion campground via the summer road. about 1/4 mile above the campground we put on our crampons and pulled out the axes for the ascent up the apron. We traversed up and across the apron with great success. As we hit the couloir we couldn't have asked for anything better. We climbed up and through the couloir with only a few exposed rock sections. Up at the top we did have to rely on the tip of our axes to get us up and over the crux to the ridge. We then ascended to the ridge and ran our way up to the summit. Following the ridge we continued across to the saddle between Devil's Castle and Sugarloaf and then glissaded down to the lake and back to the car. Great day and amazing route!
"As an adolescent I aspired to lasting fame, I craved factual certainty, and I thirsted for a meaningful vision of human life - so I became a scientist. This is like becoming an archbishop so you can meet girls."