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Devil's Castle Climber's Log

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thigbeeClimbed via 3 Technical Routes  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2011


I climbed this 3 times via 3 routes in the summer of 2011. It's some of my favorite rock climbing in the Wasatch. Big, dark, adventurous... What's not to love?

Here are links to my TRs (with pics) on my blog:

Black Streak (5.10c, 6 pitches)
Horns of Satan (5.10c, 8 pitches)
Portable Darkness (5.9+, 6 pitches)

I'll definitely be back to climb the rest of the routes.
Posted Feb 18, 2011 10:38 pm

Ed FGreat scramble  Sucess!

Ed F

Sometime in August of 07
Posted Jan 31, 2011 8:33 pm

ZeeJayFun scramble  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2007


6/27/2007 Did Sugarloaf first and then Devil's Castle. With lesdubois.

6/30/2001 Did American Fork Twin Peaks, Hidden Peak, Baldy, Sugarloaf, Devil's Castle, and 10864. With MM.

Posted Dec 16, 2010 10:21 pm

madjohnboVery fun  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2010


Very enjoyable and not as difficult as it might seem. Some parts of climbing required some concentration but were easy enough. It was good to meet BigNick and chat on top.
Posted Aug 18, 2010 9:36 pm

derektheredsolo hike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2010


fun and easy :)
Posted Aug 9, 2010 9:33 am

BignickAwsome  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2010


Did this today and met Madsjim and Madjohnbo near the Sugarloaf/DC saddle. They led the climb, I followed. I took a slightly different route to the 2nd summit and attained the ridge early and traversed to the mailbox. Signed the register, had a drink and on to the third. Great weather made for a pleasent half day hike. This makes #4 for these peaks.
Posted Aug 2, 2010 6:15 pm

jamesmc2Black Streaker!


Climbed via the Black Streak. This route was originally rated 5.11a but has been appropriately down graded to 5.10. I have also climbed Devil's Castle as a day hike. Offers some of the best view in the area.
Posted Jul 5, 2010 1:55 am

builttospillCouloir, Ridge Scramble  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2008


We delayed a trip to Colorado due to weather, so our consolation was climbing this couloir and one on the Pfeifferhorn the day before. This one was a good, fun, steep snow climb with a bit of rock scrambling thrown in.

I've also done the standard scrambling route in the summer, which is a great, quick climb (can be done in under 2 hours roundtrip, definitely).
Posted Jan 27, 2010 4:08 pm

utclimberWest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2009
Cool knife ridge. I think it is probably closer to 3rd/4th class in difficulty, but this hike has some exciting exposure.
Posted Aug 8, 2009 9:09 pm

NoSubasCecret Lake


Posted Dec 22, 2008 4:20 am

KadeeWest Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 2, 2005


One of the couple peaks that I did in '05. Just started out hiking when I did this one and my love for scrambling kept growing.

Did it again this year '08 but can't remember the exact date. Hiked it after work, to enjoy the sunset on the summit.
Posted Dec 8, 2008 5:58 pm

byatesMutiple routes and climbs  Sucess!


Usually do it as a traverse, a few times summit only.
Posted Dec 2, 2008 12:09 pm

Scott WesemannA dance with the Devil
Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2008

Scott Wesemann

Climbed with Matthew Van Horn, doing all three summits East to West. This is an excellent scramble, giving you the best the Wasatch has to offer. I think it is harder to go East to West, because the down climbing is much more difficult. (See trip report)
Posted Aug 15, 2008 6:08 pm

Travis AtwoodSummit at Dusk  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2008

Travis Atwood

Climbed with Ammon for a quick after work outing. Fun scramble for such a quick trip. We ended up coming down in the dark.
Posted Aug 13, 2008 1:34 am

Ammon HatchSummit at Dusk  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2008

Ammon Hatch

Went up after work for a quick hike with Travis Atwood. The sun was setting when we started scrambling, but we made it back past the sketchy sections before dark. Great scrambling with plenty of exposure to go around. Ran into climbingchic during the scrambling.
Posted Aug 13, 2008 1:06 am

dunsumDevil's Castle Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2008


Climbed with Brenton Peterson on a fine, late-spring day; still a ton of snow hanging around this year.
Posted Jun 7, 2008 11:04 pm

vanman798Timp looks amazing from  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2016


August 27, 2016 - Mike Halls and I climbed Portable Darkness (six pitches). We swung leads, I took the first pitch. Approach from the campground was 35ish mins. Time on climb was about 3 hours. Scramble to peak was under 30 mins. Descent (walk off to the west) was about 1.5 hours.


August 11, 2012. Climbed the six pitch Portable Darkness Route then scrambled to the peak.
Start climbing at 12:04 pm. Here are our times (climbed with Scott C)...Both at top of p1 at 12:46 pm. Both at top of p2 at 1:41 pm, both at top of p3 at 1:57 pm, both at top of p4 at 2:34, both at top of p5 at 3:02, and both at top of p6 at 3:38 pm. 4:15 on the summit. 5:30 pm at Cecret lake, and 6:30 at the Alta parking lot.
April 5, 2008 While skiing at Alta, I put on my climbling skins and skinned up to the East Peak of Devils Castle (aka East Castle); I got right up on top so I could look down the South aspect. It only took about 30 minutes to do it from the Supreme lift at Alta. First time I did it was March 22, 2008, but I didn't bother with the views like I did this time.

East Castle is at 40.56603ºN / 111.61101ºW with an elevation of 10,880 ft.

Also today (April 5, 2008), I skinned up to the ridge between Sugarloaf and Devils Castle, and had a look down the south aspect. I was at 40.56528ºN / 111.61824ºW, about 0.6 km E (82°) of East Castle at an elevation of 10,800 ft.

Loved the views of Timp from both locations.
Posted Apr 5, 2008 8:48 pm

PocketsOfBlueSweetness  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2007


Bagged this in a quick afternoon with J. Parked at Alta then ascended via Cecret Lake, gained the ridge east of the peak and made our way up the scramble (sketchtastic!) to the summit, where we were surprised and pleased to find a couple from Colorado already up there. Great exposure and an excellent peak, looking forward to a technical ascent up Black Streak this summer.
Posted Mar 27, 2008 3:49 pm

seth@LOKIdon't kill the messenger  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2007


Nice box.
Posted Aug 14, 2007 1:00 pm

BassoonFinally!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2007


Been wanting to climb Devil's Castle since last year. Scrambled up the boulder field to the colouir on the west side- only climbed to the first summit as I was just "exploring", but mean to come back soon and finish it off.

Camped out in the saddle meadow between Devil's Castle and Sugarloaf. Hiked up Sugarloaf to wake up and get warm, then came back and finished off Devil's Castle. Saw a huge moose on the way down- it was a good morning.
Posted Jul 19, 2007 3:28 pm

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