Overview A great day out on a relatively straightforward route. This is one of the easier gullies up to the Tazaghart plateau. The one difficulty, a rock band towards the top, is easily passed as long as you have rock climbing experience.
Accommodation The easiest option is to stay at the CAF hut at the base of the north face of the Tazaghart plateau. Formely known as the Lepiney hut, it is in need of attention, however it is a cosy place to stay. From here it is a walk to the bottom of the gully. For a route description to the hut see my page on the Couloir de Neige as it is in the same area.
Route Description In winter conditions the whole route is a steep gully with no particular difficulties. Confident mountaineers will be happy to solo up to the rock band, however, novices will need to be short roped. The rock band is climbed at the obvious line on the right hand side. Building an anchor to bring up the rest of the party is a bit of a challenge, but there is enough there. The rest of the route is a continued slog to the top. Descent is via the 'descent gully' to the south west.
Essential Gear Ice Axe, crampons, helmet, rope, pro, extension slings