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Diagonal Gully

Diagonal Gully

Diagonal Gully

Page Type: Route

Location: Morocco, Africa

Lat/Lon: 31.06768°N / 7.96368°W

Object Title: Diagonal Gully

Route Type: Mixed

Season: Winter

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 1

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
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Page By: MattHC

Created/Edited: Feb 12, 2008 / Feb 12, 2008

Object ID: 380378

Hits: 2404 

Page Score: 74.01%  - 4 Votes 

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Diagonal Gully Near Rockband
A great day out on a relatively straightforward route. This is one of the easier gullies up to the Tazaghart plateau. The one difficulty, a rock band towards the top, is easily passed as long as you have rock climbing experience.


Chocolate Brownies
The easiest option is to stay at the CAF hut at the base of the north face of the Tazaghart plateau. Formely known as the Lepiney hut, it is in need of attention, however it is a cosy place to stay. From here it is a walk to the bottom of the gully. For a route description to the hut see my page on the Couloir de Neige as it is in the same area.

Route Description

Diagonal Gully Rockband
In winter conditions the whole route is a steep gully with no particular difficulties. Confident mountaineers will be happy to solo up to the rock band, however, novices will need to be short roped. The rock band is climbed at the obvious line on the right hand side. Building an anchor to bring up the rest of the party is a bit of a challenge, but there is enough there. The rest of the route is a continued slog to the top. Descent is via the 'descent gully' to the south west.

Essential Gear

Diagonal Gully Top
Ice Axe, crampons, helmet, rope, pro, extension slings


Couloir Diagonal, Tazaghart PlateauDiagonal GullyDiagonal Gully Near RockbandDiagonal Gully RockbandChocolate BrowniesDiagonal Gully Top