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Diamond Peak Climber's Log

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DervDiamond Peak: Pioneer Gulch
Date Climbed: May 23, 2010


Drove to the Pioneer Gulch trailhead with no problems...minimal snow on the road from earlier snow fall during the week. Started the hike about 7:30 AM and after about a half mile had to put on snowshoes...which remained on the rest of the day. Lots and lots of fresh snow which had not yet consolidated so the going was slow. Only one icy area on the way up the false peak where the slope was windswept and we could have used crampons. Weather conditions had deteriorated by the time we got to the top of the false peak and we could not see the summit proper nor much of the ridge that separates the two due to fog/clouds. Since Mother Nature was no longer cooperating the decision was made to head back down and try again another day.
Posted May 25, 2010 8:01 pm

JGHarrisonBluebird  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 25, 2010


Amazing weather. Drove to within 200 yards of the trail head (Pioneer Gulch) with a saturn (road obviously in good shape). Wonderful, easy snow climb. Beautiful hike up with lots of Nuthatches and Chickadees. Definitely pack some snowshoes or skis for the hike down in the afternoon.
Posted Apr 26, 2010 10:49 pm

HolkSouth Ridge Youngin'  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 1993


I climbed this with my dad, cousin and two older brothers when I was 8 years old. That pretty much started it for me I think and I really look forward to heading back that way in a little while for a multi-day climb.
Posted Mar 21, 2010 2:48 am

alpinedon1st-8th times  Sucess!


I have climbed DP more than any other mountain, seven times successfully and one time to the south summit in an escalating storm. I have climbed it with the Obsidians, with friends and solo. I have done both the Summit Lake/PCT route and the Pioneer Gulch. My last time was with my friend Mike and when we were back on the trail, a 200'+ tree fell and landed about one hundred feet away. Scary!
Posted Nov 22, 2009 4:12 pm

rmick25First snow of year  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2008


Great conditions on mountain. Nice and cool and the usually loose cinder was somewhat frozen allowing nice passage. Second try of Diamond after an ill-fated attempt the year before in the winter.
Posted Sep 4, 2009 3:51 pm

vancouver islanderDiamond in the rough  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2009

vancouver islander

The "normal" S Ridge route sounded a bit on the long side so we made our own way up a (so far) undocumented direct route from Corrigan Lake. Once on it, we could see that it was previously travelled however.

Pretty straightfoward route finding from inside our head nets as we sheltered from the hordes of voracious mozzies.

Route took us, more or less, direct to the summit from the south west from where we could look down on all those additional mozzie infested miles on the standard route that we'd missed.

Excellent day!
Posted Jul 8, 2009 12:02 am

cascadetravelerSpring fling on Diamond  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 9, 2009


Hi to all you summitposters out there. Wanted to share this mountain with you. It has been a great snow season and Diamond peak is consolidated and epic for 3,000+ feet of freeheeelin fun. I must Digress, I led a basic mountaineering class graduation climb this day. It was a great day with sun and clouds enough to keep the snow semi firm for good kick stepping. We had a strong group and were having enough fun we climbed all day. We were certainly spectators during the launch of at least ten backcountry teli skiers off the summit, good times.
Posted May 10, 2009 11:01 am

RyanTaro76Off-Trail Fun  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2000
Four of us climbed it from a trailhead on a FS road from the Oakridge side. Following the PCT we went off trail near a lake whose name escapes me and went up the ridgelines of basaltic boulders, scree and snowfields. Needless to say the lack of trail gave us a full day of hiking all to ourselves. The most Ive used maps and compasses on any Cascade outing.
Posted Mar 5, 2008 1:54 pm

mkpatrickPCT/South Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 3, 2007


Summited via the PCT/Marie Lake/South Ridge Route. The route was relatively snow free, mostly just a scree slog up. We had great weather and decided to stay the night at Marie Lake. The celabratory whiskey tasted great on this cold night.
Posted Nov 5, 2007 12:10 am

cjwhatSouth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2007


Took 'Road' 6010 to Summit Lake from Road 60. 6010 is way, way rough. Took 25 miutes to drive 3 miles from Summit Lake to Diamond Rockpile TH. Not a single mosquito! Freezing nights and the magical can of DEET I never use work. Freezing fog on way up, but broke above clouds at 7,500 feet. Descent was in sunshine.
Posted Sep 24, 2007 11:51 am

Karl HelserSouth Ridge...alone!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2007

Karl Helser

Got to the Rockpile Lake TH Friday night at 8:30pm. Started up the trail at 8:00am Saturday. Got to the summit at 11:20am with a 20 minute breather at the false summit. Signed the summit register and messed around a bit then headed back down the same way. Got back to the car at 1:50pm. I wish the "bushwhacking" up north on the western slopes was this clean. The cross-country up & back was awesome. It's Mount Yoran tomorrow...
Posted Sep 23, 2007 8:34 pm

calebEOCPioneer Gulch  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2007


Did the Pioneer Gulch rockscramble, 4 hours up and 2 hours down... Winds were ferocious along the spine, had to be blowing at least 50-60mph (honestly have no idea, almost knocked me down a couple times though), made the summit almost unbearable.
Posted Sep 8, 2007 7:49 pm

BSPclimberSouth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2007


Solo hike/scramble. Started from the Rockpile TH. To Marie Lake and then due N through the forest per Brian's directions, which were spot on. Hit the small lake then went slightly W of N up the boulders and scree until I reached the false summit. The traverse from there to the real summit was a blast, mostly class 2 with a few class 3 moves thrown in for fun. Literally hundreds if not thousands of butterflies from around 7800 feet all the way to the summit. Skeeters were fairly mild on the Rockpile trail and almost nonexistant after you got past the small lake. Weather was almost perfect, a little hazy and a bit warmer than I like but no complaints. Up in 4 hours, down in just under 3 hours. A very enjoyable day, recommended with enthusiasm.

Side note: Definitely bring a compass and a GPS comes in very handy to mark waypoints though the forest.
Posted Aug 15, 2007 1:04 pm

thundercloudSouth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2004


Quick route on PCT from Summit Lake where we camped.
Posted Mar 13, 2007 8:30 pm

rweaveOvernight @ Marie Lake  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 1, 1991


Summited with my friend Pete & his parents. We camped at Marie Lake then climbed to the summit the next day. One of three Cascade Volcanoes I climbed with Pete(RIP) during elementary school. I will cherish those memories my entire life. I am planning to return this summer, as I think I was too young to really appreciate this volcano.
Posted Jan 29, 2007 6:37 pm

Dennis PoulinSouth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2002

Dennis Poulin

Nice hike through the forest and then great views from the summit ridgeline.
Posted Sep 22, 2006 9:55 pm

alexrcorigan lake  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2006


we started the first two miles along corigan lake trail. From there we bushwhacked through the forest for another mile and a half. the mosquitos were terible during this section. From there we followed the south ridge up to the false summit. The climbing in this section can be pretty dangorous. the climb from the false summit to the real summit was fairly easy. from the summit i could see from Mt. McLoughlin to Mt. Hood.
Posted Jul 18, 2006 7:43 pm

cascadetravelerRoute Climbed: pioneer gulch Date Climbed: september 11th 2005  Sucess!


We started at the trailhead at 8:00 am. We summited at 11:30 am and was back to the car by 1:30 pm. The route we had taken as well as the Corrigan lake route our the closest access to the summit. These trail heads can be reached by road 21. The routes are most popular with ski mountaineers. the southwest bowls offer up to three thousand vertical feet of skiing. The pioneer gulch trail is a 1.4 mile trail that intersects with the round the mountain trail. from here it's approx 40 degree heading through forest to reach south west ridge then a scramble up to the false summit at 8,421. At this point then you must negotiate a traverse with gendarmes along the way. then a little climb and your on the summit. The route this fine day had just recieved six inches of fresh powder from the previous days storm. The trail starts at 4,679 feet . the forest started out damp then higher up the forest wore a thin layer of frost. As we broke out above tree line we scrambled the rest of the way through boulder fields with four to six inches of snow. When we arrived at the traverse the wind had whipped up some mini cornices and created twelve inch drifts. The summit was calm and relativily warm. We did not stay long however as some threatining clouds were approaching. It was a great summit day whith a quality climb buddy. note that the route gains 4,100 ft in approx 4 miles to the summit.
Posted Sep 12, 2005 8:56 pm

cmc56789Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: August 23, 2005  Sucess!


Got an early morning start on this one, and summitted about 11 AM. Pretty neat mountain with great views from Jefferson to Mcloughlin and of all the surrounding water bodies, volcanoes, and clearcuts. Pretty windy on top. Signed the new summit register, soaked in the view, and headed back to my truck and then Portland. No people or mosquitos on this one!!!
Posted Aug 23, 2005 11:16 pm

jnalewayRoute Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: August 14, 2005  Sucess!


We started on the Pacific Crest Trail, that skirts near the SW corner of Summit Lake. The route up to the South Ridge off of the PCT was not very well marked. Once on top, the trail is fairly easy to the false summit and summit. We left the PCT and used a route maked by a cairn going up but found a better route coming down that is about 50 feet past the hairpin "lookout" on the PCT. That trail was marked by red tape flags, and appeared to be the best route up to the ridge. Beware. There are lots of rock cairns all over, but some of them are not the best route.

One other note - we found a very nice campground on the west shore of Summit Lake. Drive past all of the campers and keep going until you find an empty spot. Free camping and no wilderness charge. But bring a pen and piece of paper, as the wilderness permit stand was out of tags, so we had to make our own.
Posted Aug 15, 2005 1:46 pm

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