Diente de Llardana Comments
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|ojo||Thanks for adding this|
|Very nice page. |
And congratulations on your ascent yesterday!
My guide book (guia de los tresmiles, Alejos) puts the grade PD, so I've never considered doing this peak...
|Posted Sep 6, 2010 4:05 am|
|Rafa Bartolome||Re: Thanks for adding this|
I know Luis Alejos personally and when he wrote the book the opinions were diferents about the gradation of some routes with rock-climbs of II grade. The people actually think in II- for the Diente with a total grade of P.D.inf. (or even F.sup.) but the writers prefer to show a little bit grade when the route is exposed. One reason is that you have two posibilities in the beginning of the climb: direct across the grassy slope (only F, very easy to go up) but in the descent it's better the use of rocks of left side (P.D.inf) because the descent is impressive across the grassy terraces, it's curious but a lot of mountaineers choose a good rock to put the hands even using a harder route (me too). I prefer use the grade P.D.inf. (the harder one) for this reason.
|Posted Sep 6, 2010 7:14 am|
|Thanks for your reply. |
Actually, I was being a bit stupid commenting on PD and not PD-. I DIDN'T MEAN TO BE PEDANTIC! At the end of the day, there is a fine line between one grade and the next and it depends so much on a number of things, as you have said. I was just surprised that it was PD and not higher. I still have a lot to learn about these mountains.
Yes, I prefer a good rock on a harder route, than poor rock on easier ground. Always.
|Posted Sep 6, 2010 11:45 am|
|Rafa Bartolome||Re: good rock|
|thanks, in my opinion it's very important in this kind of peaks to explain something about the grades because it seems almost impossible to climb but 2 days ago we must wait the descent of 10 people in the normal route, he,he, it's difficult to believe... I think the reason is simple: the people have been reading information about the difficulty of this peak and they though that "the climb is possible because the route is P.D.inf.". The different between P.D. and P.D.inf. is very fine but it's very important when the climb is exposed and dangerous because it's the line between "rope or not rope" for a lot of mountaineers that they're not rock-climbers. It's the same case of Aneto, actually F.sup. in the Paso de Mahoma. You know is I+ and you climb it even when it's very dangerous because it's easy for a mountaineer but a few of trekkers, walkers or hikers don't cross to the summit. If the paso de Mahoma would be in the middle of a wide ridge all the people cross it and for this reason in the exposed passes the small different of grade will be most appreciated (I like your photo with the cross of the summit of course). For a rock-climber it's not important all the grades below III (P.D.+ or P.D.sup.)|
(you can see that my English is not very good, I'm learning, but I try to explain as good as I know. It's difficult for me to explain the rock-climb grades).
|Posted Sep 6, 2010 1:17 pm|
|ojo||Re: good rock|
|Hi. I've just found this note of a few days ago, in my in-box. |
First, your English is incredible! Your meaning is always 100 percent clear. You can take that from an English teacher of Spanish kids and adults.
I imagine your English speaking is near perfect, but it is always difficult to write. Many English-speaking people can't write well in their own language! Probably the same in any language.
I understand what you say about rock grades. I grew up with classic climbing grades in the UK and then sport climbing grades in Spain. Grading varies so much from crag to crag, type of rock, type of climb etc. Everyone has their forté and their weaknesses, too. I don't climb at the moment, but in the mountains now a days I come across the grading of trepadas and crests and .. well, I'm still learning.
Have you heard of what is called in Spain the M.I.D.E. route difficulty evaluation system? It breaks down a route into 4 categories.
|Posted Sep 9, 2010 4:51 am|
|Rafa Bartolome||Re: good rock|
|he,he, "speaking is near perfect", he,he I'm in second degree of five and my pronunciation is terrible (6/10 according with my teacher). Thank you very much for your apretiations about my English.|
The MIDE is a good scale for treking and walking but in my opinion it's not very interesting to high mountain. The scale of UIAA or the French grades are better in Europe because are most popular for short rock-climbing. The scale ISFAS is very good for a route (F, PD, AD, ...) and it's the most popular in the books about Alps and Pyrenees.
I use the table of wikipedia-climbing grades to translate to YDS for SP. You also can consult the British grade.
|Posted Sep 9, 2010 6:53 am|
|ojo||six out of ten..?|
|Six out of ten isn't bad actually, but I think your teacher is being a bit cruel. If my Spanish was half as good as your English, I'd be very happy!|
|Posted Sep 15, 2010 5:15 am|
|Rafa Bartolome||Re: six out of ten..?|
|he,he, a lot of thanks... my teacher had a lot of patience with me, he didn't be cruel. I have a new teacher now, she has also a lot of patience with us but I think our level is better at this time.|
|Posted Sep 16, 2010 9:46 am|