Born as the first tool to document subjects hardly approachable in their environment, with a very low image quality, is subsequently developed in a short time, to involve manufacturers of telescopes as Kowa, Leica, Optolith Swarovski, Zeiss ecc. ecc., and manufacturers of compact digital cameras such as Fuji, Nikon, Olympus, Sony ecc. ecc., and today great results and, for some subjects, only.
In addition to equipment costs, significantly lower, the diffusion was also the advantage, unique to have so powerful that the focal world of traditional photography did not exist. We think that a scope with a 20X eyepiece can get to a focal length equivalent to that of a conventional lens 35mm 1500-3000mm. The quality, when used apochromatic telescopes with a diameter of at least 80 mm. and digital cameras with optical quality least 5ml. pixels and a magnification factor of around 3X, it is definitely more than acceptable for normal use, including printing, without having to reach large print formats. It is also absolutely fine if you use fixed eyepieces with magnification factors from 20X to 35X.
The basic elements of a kit can be:
1) - A prismatic telescope or a terrestrial telescope on Earth.
2) - An eyepiece of quality equal to that of the telescope.
3) - An adapter between eyepiece and camera.
4) - A camera with 4X zoom up.
5) - A cable release or electronic.
6) - A tripod (tripod) stable and camouflage. (Black or green or camouflaged .. absolutely not to use those aluminum or chrome).
7) - A head with precise movements and fluid. We prefer the video or rocker.
To complicate matters we must always try to remember that all the equipment must be easy to transport and quick installation. .... It is no small thing!
There are several ways to match the camera to the telescope. In this article I will consider the method I use, namely afocal.
Afocal MethodThe advantage of the method is that it exploits the afocal magnification factor by summing the eyepiece with that of the camera lens. The result is a powerful telephoto focal lengths that can reach even equal to 3500 mm. but with a significant loss of brightness. This method applies to both compact cars like the SLR. Until a few years ago, with this method, applied only compact machines but the future of Digiscoping see all concentrated in exploiting the system by using the best EVIL or digital SLR (accompanied by a fixed lens, 50mm usually) combined with binoculars even of small dimensions in order to have a system easier to handle. In fact many manufacturers start to produce refined telescopes from 50 mm. ED apochromatic lenses.
When we found the best way to machine and assemble the telescope we are faced with the dilemma of the camera settings for exposure and focus.Working with the focus in manual mode is the most widely used and recommended for the great extension of the research objectives of the MAF. The Olympus, Pentax and Sony have produced targets, including zoom, with all movements within the target body. Unfortunately there are among the brightest, but the advantage of being able to exploit the MAF end, after the one made with the telescope, and really great.the exposure control mode is always best to set it on the spot or, for some machines, in the "Center Weighted." This latest offering is a perfect exposure control 80% of cases. Council, however, to set the machine for a light underexposure (-1 / 3).The control of the priority must be made considering the subject and the characteristics of the light. Our preference is always for the aperture-priority subjects but with very fast and small that we often risking a lot of time on the correct exposure.In our "system", the long focal length, does not give us many advantages over the management of the depth of field managed by the diaphragms.On summer days the sun is much preferable to the choice of aperture priority so that you can also use a lot of time and catch even fast moving subjects.Another thing is the focus. For many it is an issue on which there rages without thinking well the characteristics of the material we have in our hands. We have already said that the choice of the target must move towards a bright and sturdy 50mm.The machine must not be autofocus because the fire we find from the telescope (the only exception being the use of those objectives by all internal mechanism of the MAF). We are very careful to place the focus of the lens of our camera to infinity and do not touch it anymore. With some lenses the focusing ring has a little game or flows past the infinity sign, it may be compromising.The problem arises when, by focusing our subject, who immediately go away, we quickly find the best focus, controlling only in the small viewfinder of the camera that, with a zoom factor too, has darkened.With the new cameras have the advantage of Live View.With normal lenses the mechanical excursion of the research focus is extensive but the pancakes is very low. This fact makes them very handy because we can also use the autofocus. In case this is not the machine that focuses our entire system, but after trying the right focus with the telescope, the machine executes the order. The results are great if our subject is free from objects in the foreground.
For What concerns the camouflage and try to make themselves invisible to wild animals, my conclusion is: "Forget it."
They know exactly where you are and what you are doing. The best approach is to keep a safe distance, mute the phone (you are a guest in the great theater of nature), making slow movements, avoid bright colors and reflections.
At the most I use a canvas camo as a screen, is light, I can anchor it to the bushes and use my rackets as stakes (my cover is reversible: white for winter, camouflage colors for the other three seasons).
Those made in the form of poncho (cloth /tent military Italian or German Army), have the hole for the head that function very well as a photographic window.
But I repeat a concept, if wild animals know where you are and above all you do not move from there, they will be much more relaxed and spontaneous.
Personal ConsiderationsAdvantages of the system:
The cost is infinitely more convenient (5 times less) than buying photographic optics, stabilized and motorized type 400-600 mm.
The double use: Photo hunt in the mountains, first requires the identification of nests, burrows, animals at rest. The telescope for digiscoping is the useful way to do this.
Learn the technique: it is not one thing short, it is essential to know the full potential of your camera, but once you learn the system the risulatti are exciting.
Manual labor throughout the system, exposure time, etc. etc.., Is adjusted manually. is like going back to the good old days of film. One shot .... a result!
The distance: the high power of the system will allow you to annoy your prey to a minimum. With wild animals, the greater the distance between you and them, the better the results.
Disadvantages of the system
Weight: it is really tiring to bring everything you need.
Time: forget to do the shooting improvised, everything has to be planned.
The micromotion: will be your worst enemy.
After an initial phase of discouraging results, little by little, I learned to appreciate and love the technique of digiscoping. results arrive and are stunningly beautiful.
$ Some Prices $Vortex 80HD: 1600 euro.
30X Lens: 200 euro.
Photographic Adaptator: 160 euro.
Tripod + Head: 500 euro.
Red Spot: 110 euro.