John Muir Wilderness > Lone Pine Peak > Direct South Face > Climber's Log
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| chris_r | Not so bad, really.  Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2008 | |
| This route sometimes gets a bad rap for having bushes, ants, and loose stuff, all of which DO occur on the route, so if you're looking fo a sanitized gym climbing experience, this one's not for you. But basically, it's an OK route. We did it car to car in about 12 hours, simul-climbed most of it. Found it mostly enjoyable, with the exception of a couple of ant bites and some really loose shit on the first couple of roped pitches. The tension traverse upstairs is totally unnecessary, so it all goes free at 5.9-. There is one 5.6 face pitch about halfway up which has several bolts added, seemed unnecessary. The RJ secor description is a bit off key for this one. | |
| Posted Oct 31, 2011 6:41 pm | ||
| DustysDawg | Crap Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2006 | |
| Did it with Steve. And I second the comments he posted below. I think it was 14:45 car to car. We both agree that it is the worst climb that we have done in the Sierra. | |
| Posted Jul 13, 2006 4:22 am | ||
| Steve Larson | Ugh. Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2006 | |
| Climbed this in a day with my friend Brian. We both hated it. I think it's a contrived line with low-quality technical climbing interspersed with way too much scrambling. Kind of chossy, if you ask me. We were glad to get off it. Did I say I don't like bushes? Way too many bushes on this climb, too. Just a pet peeve. If you like bushes and dirty chimneys, this is your climb. | |
| Posted Jun 5, 2006 8:51 pm | ||
| physics | Direct South Face Date Climbed: May 6, 2006 | |
| climbed with poorboy44; took 9 roped pitches to gain the ridge and 2 more to up-over the ridge. fun climb but unenjoyable descent down the E. slopes. if you do this, try not to get sidetracked with other crack systems ... "I prefer to climb on route" - Scotty | |
| Posted May 11, 2006 3:59 pm | ||
| poorboy44 | Direct South Face Date Climbed: May 6, 2006 | |
| With Kurt Hafer. Got off route at the start and climbed some scary loose stuff. Make sure to climb the main corner system just like Craig's topo says. We bivied, but this route can be done in a day (about 10 pitches). Estimate 2-4 hours approach, 6-8 hours climbing time, 3-4 hours descent time. Use the Land of Little Rain variation for the final few pitches. | |
| Posted May 9, 2006 4:49 pm | ||
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