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| Direkte Sudkante   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Uri, Switzerland, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.66729°N / 8.63937°E Route Type: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing Season: Spring, Summer, Fall Time Required: Most of a day Rock Difficulty: 5.10c (YDS) Difficulty: TD sup., UIAA VII Number of Pitches: 9
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| Page By: mazzani Created/Edited: May 24, 2011 / Mar 7, 2012 Object ID: 717965 Hits: 620 Loading... Page Score: 87.86% - 11 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview  From the main summit view toward Uri Alps  Direkte Sudkante - Photo Silvia Mazzani
DIREKTE SUDKANTE
Summit altitude: mt. 2784
Climbing length: 350 mt.
Exposure: SE
First ascent: B. Honegger – A. Muller 1995
Starting point: Gutsch mt. 2300 (parking)
A superb route with first-class granite climbing a detached pillar situated in the right end of South-East Face; the route is situated very close to the classic Sudkante. Getting ThereFrom Andermatt, a little town at St.Gotthard northern exit, follow the road to Oberalp Pass as far as the village of Natschen (mt. 1850), where you must leave the main road and turn to left, following a gravel road and reaching a forking. At the forking turn to right and carry on for some Kilometers, reaching Gutsch. Park the car in a little pull out near the bar which closes the road. Route Description  Near Gross Schijen main summit - Photo Silvia Mazzani  Direkte Sudkante second pitch  Red slab - Photo Silvia Mazzani  Starting wall - Photo Silvia Mazzani
From the parking walk along the unsurfaced road for about 5 minutes, then follow on the left-hand side a short and steep trail reaching the face’s right end (15 minutes from the parking). Starting point below a steep red wall, cut by a clean crack.
L1 - Climb the magnificent crack to the pillar’s top (5c+).
L2 - Straight up, climbing the steep wall over the stance along a little corner and a hard crack (6b+, 6a with 2 p.a.).
L3 – Little walls to a superficial corner, then a superb slab. (6a).
L4 – Towards left to a pillar starting with a little overhang, then thin cracks to a stance below a roof (5b).
L5 – Towards left under the roof, then climb a wall with fine cracks (5c).
L6 – Another superb pitch along technical corners (6a).
L7 – L8 Two easy pitches leading to the summital ridge (4a).
L9 – An other easy pitch along the summital ridge, with a final 10 mt abseil reaching a grassy saddle between the pillar and the main summit..
From the saddle a 10-15 minutes’ scramble leads to Gross Schijen main summit, where you can have a satisfactory view over Uri Range.
Descent: from the top back to the saddle, where a grassy track starts towards SE reaching a steep gully
which leads to the bottom (three optional abseils).
Essential GearRope 2 x 50, helmet, nuts 6-9, friends 1-2, ten express. When to climb Best season goes from the end of April to the end of October. MeteoMETEOSVIZZERAGuidebooks and maps "Schweiz Plaisir Ost" by Jurg von Kanel - Edition Filidor Images
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