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lcarreauMy birth county's highpoint!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 20, 1984


Randy Sackett was the guide out of RMI. The snowpack
and weather conditions were awesome in August 1984.
There was a section above the cleaver where we were
unroped at the guide's decision. Two climbers had to
remain behind at Disappointment Cleaver. The lights
of Yakima were seen shining in the east. Great climb!
Posted Dec 10, 2007 10:37 pm

JonWRunway  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2007


Great route (except for going through the cleaver), great views, great peace at mind. Just follow the lights of all the RMI and IMG teams.
Posted Oct 31, 2007 2:06 pm

InsertHereWill be back
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 1999


1st attempt, didn't make it past the cleaver. That was a long time ago, will be back for sure.
Posted Sep 10, 2007 5:40 pm

jvarholakDC route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2006


beautiful mountain...perfect weather...crowded route (but what did I expect....still loved it
Posted Sep 4, 2007 5:32 pm

ClodhopperModified route.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2007


Couldn't climb onto the cleaver, too late in the season. We climbed down around the nose of the cleaver and up the Emmons Glacier. Very windy, but clear skies.
Posted Sep 3, 2007 8:40 pm

seth@LOKIGreat "warm up" for damn cold  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 31, 1998


Though my 1983 overstuffed 15 degree Marmot Pocket Gopher (that I still use!) worked well with a bit of help from a reflecto warmer. We had light loads on ready for Liberty Ridge...maybe nest time Dirky.
Posted Jul 30, 2007 1:18 am

Brad MarshallDC Route
Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2007

Brad Marshall

Sue and I attempted the DC route during a week of truely shitty weather. After giving up on any sort of attempt we skipped dinner on our last night and decided to wait to eat a good meal the following day after descending from Muir. That night the weather cleared and we left at 1:00 AM with little energy, improper hydration and lack of will. We ascended to 14K before exhaustion and a spasm in Sue's back before turning around. No problem about not summiting as I was more concerned about a safe traverse back before the Cleaver of our two-person rope team but made it back safe and sound. Better a responsible climber than a liability to others in our book.
Posted Jul 23, 2007 7:48 pm

Jim Carr2nd Attempt  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 30, 1998
Weather drove us down the first time, but rolled right up on the second try.
Posted Jun 15, 2007 4:06 pm

1mverticaldid not disappoint  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2006


Great weather, great day. Had the summit to ourselves, and only saw a couple of RMI teams. Looking to Tahoma Glacier the next time.
Posted May 7, 2007 1:47 pm

HotfeetAwesome!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2006


Absolutely fantastic! I had the time of my life!!!
Posted Mar 26, 2007 3:24 am

lukicFirst summit  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2003


After a couple of trips to the top of the cleaver with friends who couldn't make it, this time we did.
Posted Feb 20, 2007 10:58 pm

WallylongridgeDC route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 1982


What a great climb. I think the key was getting up early and beating the RMI people up the route. Saw the sun come up on the Summit, that was a real treat.
Posted Feb 15, 2007 10:36 pm

ascendingzionMy First Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2005


My first glacier climb, and second overall after Shasta. We had great weather after a storm the first night followed by my first whiteout in the morning. Summitted on my first try with no guides! Thank God for good weather!
Posted Feb 1, 2007 9:06 pm

MtnAv8rI'll Be Back
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2000


Whiteout and windy. Didnt go above Muir. Will be back.
Posted Jan 13, 2007 7:03 pm

lalpinistFresh Tracks  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2005


Nobody had summitted in a week and noon had attempted DC in recent memory, perhaps not for the season, even. The ice was loosening up in the mid-morning warm-up. We rushed to get off the glacier.
Posted Nov 4, 2006 2:28 pm

Fractal ManiacAmazing!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2006

Fractal Maniac

Most interesting mountain I've ever climbed. Photo trip report:
Posted Sep 7, 2006 6:41 am

scotthallDC Route  Sucess!


Didn't you puke blood mitch. . . it was exceptionally hot when we climbed the summer of 2004. . . needed more water than usual.
Posted Sep 5, 2006 3:25 am

Mike NDC Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2006

Mike N

This route is well wanded and there is a good path to follow. RMI does a great job at making easy for everyone. I'm sure that's why it so popular. Beware of all the objective hazards such as rockfall and weak snow bridges. Stick to RMI path and move fast and should be no problem. Technically easy. Basically just a snow walk, scree scramble on the cleaver. Nothing steep. Just beware all the hazards that are out there.
Posted Aug 31, 2006 4:52 pm

LubosDC route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2006


Best time to climb is May through June. It is nice to go up over the Ingraham glacier and return over the DC. Ingraham flats is a good area to stay over night. Solo climb.
Posted Aug 20, 2006 3:21 am

osatrikThe Guide Route  Sucess!


I've summited via the DC 3 times, but my best performance on it was when we turned around at the top of the cleaver (12,500) in blowing wind and rapidly decreasing visibility.
It was a 4th of July climb about 1997 or 1998. I had my 2 daughters and a bunch from OSAT on the climb. We spent a night at Muir, and another at Ingraham Flats. Weather was a bit unsettled, with lenticular clouds now and then. The morning of our summit attempt I remember seeing the RMI light streams come around Cathedral Gap as we were getting on the lower part of the cleaver. We turned around without regrets at the top of the cleaver, and by the time we got back to Camp Muir and looked back, most of the mountain above 11,000 was in a cloud. But I found out RMI turned around at the base of the cleaver, and told my fellow climbers to remember this as the climb when they got 1000 feet higher than RMI.
Posted Aug 15, 2006 5:47 am

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