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Disaster Factor

 
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Disaster Factor
Brian leading Disaster Factor (5.8/5.9) on Middle East Wall. He (wisely) decided to back up that #4 Big Bro with a nut in the right crack before commiting to the crux squeeze section below the second chockstone. The route continues up inside the chimney above. Fun climb.

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Viewing: 1-11 of 11    

rpccool chimney

rpc

Voted 10/10

can you protect the right crack instead?
Nice shot & cool looking route.
Posted Mar 14, 2007 12:32 am

Martin CashRe: cool chimney

Martin Cash

Hasn't voted

Thanks man. Yeah, you can protect the right crack until the 2nd chockstone. It doesn't feel pure but is safer. That Big Pro placement is fairly marginal. Maybe walking a #9 Valley Giant cam would be better. Kinda stiff for a 5.8 just above where he is. The chimney above takes aliens deep in the back.

We also TRed Jihad again and lead the usual stuff. Good times.
Posted Mar 14, 2007 12:49 am

pvalchevRe: cool chimney

pvalchev

Voted 10/10

Looks like an advertisement for double ropes to me!! ;) Very cool looking routes on that wall, have to make it there sometime...
Posted Mar 15, 2007 12:15 am

Martin CashRe: cool chimney

Martin Cash

Hasn't voted

Yeah, the routes over there are all pretty nice. You shouldn't need doubles for this climb. You belay from the top of the wall, which is about 90 feet up, so a 50 meter is too short, if rapping off one of the anchors up there.
Posted Mar 15, 2007 4:47 pm

pvalchevRe: cool chimney

pvalchev

Voted 10/10

I just meant that with doubles you can protect both cracks with no rope drag (otherwise I imagine he had to put a long sling when putting that right piece).

Glad to see this picture got the attention it deserves!
Posted Mar 15, 2007 6:18 pm

wuedesauStrong Man

wuedesau

Hasn't voted

Seems that Brian pushed away the left column
Posted Mar 15, 2007 8:10 am

nurettinRe: Strong Man

nurettin

Hasn't voted

:) Yeah..
Posted Mar 15, 2007 10:56 am

Brad MarshallNice Shot

Brad Marshall

Hasn't voted

Good shot Martin, it really gives the climb perspective.
Posted Mar 15, 2007 4:28 pm

Martin CashRe: Nice Shot

Martin Cash

Hasn't voted

Thanks a lot for the nice comments Brad.
Posted Mar 15, 2007 4:42 pm

DigglerAs soon as I saw this pick, I thought...

Diggler

Voted 10/10

looks like a sweet climb- sick-looking basalt columns shooting straight up? Gotta be one of Martin's shots. Nice one!
Posted Mar 15, 2007 5:46 pm

Martin CashRe: As soon as I saw this pick, I thought...

Martin Cash

Hasn't voted

Thanks a lot Dirk.
Posted Mar 15, 2007 7:52 pm

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Image Data
Martin CashSubmitted by Martin Cash
on Mar 14, 2007 12:12 am

Image ID: 277693
Hits: 4401 
Lat/Lon: 47.02480°N / 119.9687°W
Object Title: Disaster Factor

Image Type(s): Rock Climbing