When facing the Veliki Draški vrh north face (upper Krma valley), Trapez (trapezoid, 400 m tall) is the major formation to the right, just before the Tosc north face.

DKV perfectly follows the weakness in the transitions of the central part of Trapez. Excellent rock quality when needed, steppness and rewarding exposure made this climb a popular one - at a grade it finely suits.

The route was opened by Daro Dolar, Mitja Kilar and Vido Vavken (hence the title), in 1951.

Getting There

1. Get off the bus or split SW off road 201 in Mojstrana (between Jesenice and Kranjska Gora - click the coords above for details), and follow signs for Radovna, Krma, or Bled. In Zgornja Radovna* follow the sign Krma; the now macadamized road heads along the Krma valley to a parking lot at the Kovinarska koča trailhead mountain hut (870 m, ca 3 km from the asfalted road; hut tel: +386 (0)51 631 989, or 051 345 806). The macadamized road continues for ca 2 km to a further large parking space (alt 950 m).
> Continue up the valley along the marked path until the upper meadow (Zgornja Krma, ca 1700 m; at this point the Triglav/Kredarica approach heads right). From the meadow, head left, up scree slopes to the foot of Trapez. Start at the top of the uppermost (to the right) scree tongue of Trapez (2 to 3 hours from the end of the road).

* Zgornja Radovna may also be reached from Bled, following road signs for Mojstrana, Radovna.

2. One may also reach Trapez from the south, via the Vodnikov dom mountain hut (1817 m). From the hut follow the Krma signpost and first reach the Bohinjska vratca saddle (1973 m). Descend the scree to Trapez, first passing the Tosc walls (ca 45 min).

Route Description

Pitch 1: lower angle scramble, to the right of the slit. Next head left (passed the continuation of the main crack) to the foot of the steep and tall step, now definitely roping-in.
Pitch 2: dihedral, IV, then V. Exit left on slabs (IV), continuing along the wide chimney until a scale. Belay.
Pitch 3: III, diagonally to the right along rugged terrain, exiting to a chossy terrace, next following to its outer left. Belay at the foot of a major crack.
Pitch 4: III, avoid the dihedral to its left, next returning right-hand to a comfortble ledge at the foot of the next dihedral.
Pitch 5: V (crux pitch), manage the sometimes overhanging and deeply sculpted dihedral/crack, exiting left-hand (slabs, IV+) to a ledge.
Pitch 6: continue along the crack/book, to the left of a small cave. Avoid the overhang to the right (IV+). Next follow the overhanging dihedral (V), or by-pass it to the right (IV+). Exit to a ledge below the roof.
Pitch 7: follow the ledge to the left (III), next turning around an edge and discovering a terrace.
Pitch 8: climb the slab right to left (V-), continuing to a chimney that further becomes a crack (IV+). Belay just below the roof.
Pitch 9: traverse the slab left-hand (IV-), next continuing upwards along slabs (IV+) on the right side of an edge. Belay on a ledge below overhangs, discovering a major cave.
Pitch 10: traverse to the left around an edge (IV, exposed), exiting left-hand to a chossy slit/gully (the original exit next heads right).
Pitch 11: turn left around an edge (I) to a chossy gully.
Pitch 12: (unseen on the pic) follow the gully straight to the summit of Trapez (the main summit is still a short walk up, to the left).

Descent: straight down the S slopes to the marked path. Left to Bohinj; or right to the Vodnikov dom hut and further to the Krma valley (start), via the Bohinjska vratca saddle (ca 3.30 h to the trailhead).

Essential Gear

The route is very often climbed and most pro (pitons) must be in place by now. Natural belay building is favored when possible (> webbing).
The usual alpine trad rack should be carried, as a reserve in case of retreat or for additionnal comfort: blades, profiles, universal, cams (medium and medium-small sufficient here).

External Links

Slovenske stene / Slovene walls

Images