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Dragontail Peak Climber's Log

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supermarmotearly morning  Sucess!


heard lots of rockfall the previous day... woke up at 5:30 and bagged it before it got hot again.
Posted Jul 9, 2006 6:38 am

esugiCar to Car, Dragontail Cirque  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2006


Camped at the TH and got an early 4:30am start. Plodded up Colchuck Glacier under beautiful skies. Summitted at 11:00am and descended via Aasgard Pass (was able to glissade almost the entire thing!). Made it back to the car at 3:30pm. 11 hour round trip with no break over 15 minutes and almost always on the go.

Next up on this mountain is the Triple Couloirs!
Posted Jun 5, 2006 3:20 am

diceySouth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 23, 2006
Via Aasgard pass. Sunny Day!
Posted Jun 2, 2006 5:40 pm

rialtosolRoute Climbed: Aasgard Pass Snow creek glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 29, 2005


Plan was to climb Dragontail on Sat and then drop down to the Colchuck col and summit Colchuck also. Given the record hot temps we decided to wait and get an early start sunday morning. After summiting about 7:00am we decided to forgo Colchuck until the following day, via the colchuck glacier.
Posted Feb 27, 2006 1:06 am

Snidely WhiplashRoute Climbed: Aasgard Pass/Snow Creek Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2000

Snidely Whiplash

One day from car to summit. Luckily, it was a cool day. I would never want to go up Aasgard Pass in hot weather.
Posted Feb 23, 2006 4:48 pm

setrentRoute Climbed: Serpentine Arete Date Climbed: 02 August, 2004  Sucess!
Car to car in sixteen hours. The climbing low on the route was enjoyable, the twin cracks pitch outstanding. The upper pitches were loose and demanded concentration. Generally stay more to climber's left to stay out of a loose gully and headwall to the right. Did not need crampons or ice axe for the climb or descent.
Posted Dec 23, 2005 1:03 am

renRoute Climbed: Aasgard Pass Date Climbed: May 29, '05  Sucess!


Camped in the snow filled basin and summitted Little Annapurna the day before. Bright sunshine ( I believe record highs). The plan was to summit on the 28th but as we topped Aasgard around 10:00am the snow was already slush so we waited till early next morning and headed up. Fantastic views in an incredible area!
Posted Nov 5, 2005 1:15 pm

mandrakeRoute Climbed: Aasgard Pass / Snow Creek Glacier Date Climbed: July 30, 2005  Sucess!


Group of seven of us made summit about 11am Saturday. Beautiful weather and spectacular views off of the summit. Thanks to 'rpc' for the great beta!
Posted Aug 1, 2005 4:24 pm

hkutukRoute Climbed: Snow Creek Glacier Date Climbed: June 19, 2005  Sucess!


My intention was to climb DT from Aasgard quickly and be down before the afternoon thunderstorms hit the mountains. I always hear horror stories about hiking to Aasgard pass but there was a decent path from Colchuck lake to the pass so made good time. Snow on the glacier was very soft and some point release debris were visible but it was very straightforward. Finally caught up with a very fast paced climber, Jeff, on the summit. It was still around 10 and he suggested to climb Witches Tower and Little Annapurna. So we first went down the south ridge of DT and off the ridge steep soft snow on to the south side of Witches tower and scrambled up a class-3 route to its cool summit. From there a gentle raising traverse to Little Annapurna. After a well earned lunch break and exchanges of our climb stories back down to the pass and at 5pm arrived at the car. Admired the climbers on the rocks along Icicle road as I drove back to L-worth and eventually made it back to Portland before midnight.

I had a great day in one of the most beatiful places and dedicated this little trip on Father's Day to my dad who passed away a year ago and is missed dearly...
Posted Jun 21, 2005 5:41 pm

Brian JenkinsRoute Climbed: Aasgard Pass/Snow Creek Glacier Date Climbed: July 11, 2004  Sucess!

Brian Jenkins

Quite the littany of flexibility on this one. Plans changed numerous times. Originally was going to meet up Saturday evening with friends Mark/Natasha and Chris/Shauna. They were each going to do Serpentine Arrete in two teams and I was going to do Colchuck and Dragontail via Colchuck Glacier. I got a late start out of Portland and didn't get to the trailhead until almost 11 pm so I opted to crash in the truck and start at first light.

Got going about 4:30 am at the same time as another party of 3 who slept at the trailhead too. Made Colchuck Lake by about 6:30 or so. Had been on the walkie talkie to try to contact my friends all the way in but no response and never saw them on the route. Ran into them at their tents by the lake. They had started up much earlier and the weather window they needed never opened. By the time I got there though the weather was clearing so they decided to hike up to the lakes basin. I opted to enjoy the trail with them instead of the glacier. Lots of laughs all the way up.

At the Pass we headed to the lakes for a bit and ran into a very curious goat. I departed for the glacier while they then headed east for a hike. Scrambled up and over a few minor ridges. Be careful on these if you do so, I slipped on a polished slab and rode a 45 degree rock down about 30 feet hoping I wouldn't turn an ankle.

Luckily I didn't and I then started up the glacier. Pretty slushy by this time of day (about 11 am). Went mostly straight up until the top, then did a switchback to gain the saddle. Ditched the axe and crampons and scrambled up to the summit. Knew I would be late getting back home to Portland so opted to descend the same route instead of downclimb to Colchuck. Hiked out with Chris and Shauna.

Back at the trailhead as I rubbed my feet and moaned, I ran into the group that departed a few minutes before me that morning. They had done the 10 mile hike into Prusik, did the South Arrete route as a team of 3, and hiked out in the same amount of time (about 15 hours) as it took me o Dragontail. I quickly shut up as I knew I had just gone from long, tough dayclimber to wuss in like 15 seconds.

Still don't think I'd recommend this as a dayhike although it certainly can be done as one. Just made for another late night drive home for me. Hit my bed about 2:30 am but still glad I did it as it was great to hang with friends and get a peak in.
Posted Jul 12, 2004 10:40 pm

sethRoute Climbed: Serpentine Arete Date Climbed: August 1995


Slow group, made even slower by initial route-finding difficulty. While descending, group above kicked down a grapefruit that landed on my pack, about an inch or so behind my helmeted noggin, smashing my compass into bits... It's on the list for this summer...
Posted Apr 29, 2004 6:38 pm

MoniRoute Climbed: West ridge via Colchuck Col Date Climbed: Jun 13, 1976  Sucess!


With Fred.
Posted Nov 15, 2003 8:41 am

SharonRoute Climbed: Serpentine Arete IV, 5.8 Date Climbed: August 13, 1989  Sucess!


Partners: John Middleton & Allan Thousteinson.

Joe Hahler & Ruth Martin were on a separate rope team.

Stay left on final pitches to hit the big exit ledge...critical...it looks like you should go to the right, but that traps you under the big roofs of the summit towers & moves must be reversed. I still fondly remember a wonderful pitch of chickenheads warmed by the sun.

Minimal pro: #1 & #2 Camalots, 2-3 Friends, 2 Tech Friends, several stoppers. Plus helmet! This was my first multi-pitch alpine rock climb & I'll never, ever forget it...as well as the 1st time I had ever been exposed to serious rockfall (no one was hit). From talking later to another party, who had experienced the same thing in what we agreed upon was the "Death Gully", we all may have been slightly off-route. Beckey terms this route "distinctly sporting."

Roped up at 7:45 am...summitted 7:30 pm...& that was with all 5 of us. Descent via Aasgard Pass.
Posted Jul 23, 2003 12:05 am

wallspeckRoute Climbed: Backbone Ridge Date Climbed: July 1995  Sucess!


Climbed with Phil Dyment who was living in Ellensburg then. We went light; car to car in 16 hours. The 80 foot long 5.9 offwidth in the middle may have a couple of 5.9 moves but it's reputation far exceeds it's bite. Don't be afraid, it's easy. The wet rock down low was harder. The finishing pitches on the fin were wild. Very beautiful area.
Posted May 8, 2003 3:59 pm

HonkeydongRoute Climbed: south ridge trail Date Climbed: August 1984  Sucess!


Pete and I did this walk-up in howling wind and blue skies. I thought we'd get blown off, but by the time we got near the top the winds died down some. Awesome scenery from the top. Dark clouds to the west moving east chased us back to the truck the next day.
Posted Mar 4, 2003 7:55 am

MikeBRoute Climbed: Triple Couloirs Date Climbed: April 4, 2002  Sucess!


Got lost in the dark on the approach - lots of bushwacking; missed the last bridge that led to some dicey creek crossings via icy logs. Good climb with several pitchs of veneer ice plastered over granite, plus several pitches of neve; sustained climbing of 50-70 degrees for entire route; outstanding exposure that really made the climb worthwhile. Great glissade down Asgard pass to Colchuck Lake - beats walking. Horrendous hike out in soft snow - numerous plunges to chest height while crossing the boulder field below Colchuck Lake. Simul soloed entire route with partner - car to car in 12 hours.
Posted Dec 26, 2002 11:18 am

geoffcaseyRoute Climbed: Colchuck Glacier Date Climbed: June 25 2002  Sucess!


Great Weather, Great Company, Great mountains,

Though a tiring one day trip.
Posted Sep 25, 2002 1:26 pm

Joe HanssenRoute Climbed: East Face from Asgard Pass Date Climbed: Summer '97  Sucess!

Joe Hanssen

Views from the summit to Stuart, down to Colchuck Lake and up north are impressive. The East Face is very easy, this is a great day climb.
Posted Jul 29, 2002 9:58 am

scot'teryxRoute Climbed: Aasgard Pass/Snow Creek Glacier Date Climbed: 07/27/02  Sucess!


Dragontail Peak via Colchuck Lake and Aasgard Pass Since my traverse off the Enchantments last October, I have been drawn to Dragontail Peak. There is an incredible image of it in my family room that was taken by RF Bolton (A great mountain photographer).

With the extension of the road closure till Aug 1, I grabbed my friend John and we headed out to Leavenworth on Friday night. We left the Stuart Lake TH at 9am and made it to Colchuck Lake by 1030. We traversed around the lake and ate food and rested for half an hour at the base of Aasgard Pass (the only way

to the Enchantments IMO). We started the ascent in hot weather and heavy packs (we had planned to do Witches Tower as well (2 pitches 5.6)but after about 300 vertical feet we were dying and knew that time would not be on our side to do both so we opted to only do Dragontail. We left our rock gear behind and with lighter packs we made it to the top of Aasgard Pass by 130pm. The view was incredible as always, and we started up towards the Snow Creek Glacier and rested at the base to eat more and rest. We spoke to a party that had just ascended the Serpentine Arete (5.8) and bid them a good trip down the pass. We started our ascent of the glacier and traversed back and forth in the soft styrafoam snow that had a nice ice layer underneath and made it to the col in 30 minutes or less. Once there I was looking for the class 2-3 scramble that I have always heard about, but it's nothing more than an unusually well traveled trail that was 10 times better than Aasgard pass, and much easier. The summit was awesome, and views were 360 degrees. It was 4pm and we decided to turn around and head for the car. I can't say anything more than I suffered on the way down, after doing Rainier on Tuesday I felt the pain and agony - but was happy to have been perched on the summit of Dragontail (11 hours car to car)::: Next Route : Serpentine Arete
Posted Jul 28, 2002 6:04 pm

Fred SpickerRoute Climbed: West Route via Colchuck Glacier Date Climbed: 13 June 1976 & 16 June 1985

Fred Spicker

1976 with Monica Spicker.

1985 with Jim Spearman and a Spokane Mountaineers group.

Approach via Colchuck Glacier and descent via Aasgurard Pass - both trips.
Posted Jul 25, 2002 5:11 pm

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