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Dreambed, 5.11b
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Dreambed, 5.11b

 
Dreambed, 5.11b

Page Type: Route

Object Title: Dreambed, 5.11b

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: 5.11b

Number of Pitches: 8

Grade: III

Route Quality: 
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Page By: MichaelJ

Created/Edited: Aug 31, 2008 / Aug 31, 2008

Object ID: 437481

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Overview

A classic mixed trad/bolt-protected climb, Dreambed offers a good day of challenging face climbing on quality rock with reasonable safety. The hardest climbing is on the first four pitches, which can easily be gotten off with two double rope raps, making for some fun cragging without having to get too high or worry about slogging off the top.

Getting There

Take the access trail to the base of the wall. Head right, down about 200 meters, just past the start of Forbidden Corner. Look for a faint trail heading up the wall, which leads directly to the start: a right-facing corner.

Route Description

P1. Climb the corner, placing gear. The start is a little dirty and loose but the climbing improves higher. Pull through a steep crack to a bolted belay on a good ledge. 10a.

P2. Move left and follow a line of bolts up and right. A micro cam will protect the section before the first bolt and a small nut will gear up an easy but run-out section later on. About 10 draws will handle the rest. This is supposedly the crux pitch with some 10d and 11a/b moves. I found the climbing generally sustained but not too hard, a few pumpy/tricky moves with good rests between and decent stances for clipping. There was always a bolt where you wanted one. A long pitch at 50 meters. 11a/b.

P3. A short pitch straight up a line of bolts to a small roof that takes a #2 BD and then easy moves left to a big ledge. 10d but felt much easier.

P4. A hard move right and up (10b) to clip a bolt with a ledge fall potential if you blow it. Seven bolts lead to a good stance and the real crux of the climb, which you can protect at chest-height with a .75 BD (a #1 works, too, but save it for higher). This is the most dicey move on the route: a committing lunge to a suspect flake. Traverse under a roof, plug in some cams (BD #1 is best) and climb a steep crack to easy ground and the belay. 10d.

Note: We rapped off at this point but found the topo in Andy Genereux's exellent Yam Rock to be very accurate, so the rest of the description is based on that.

Per the topo, a 60 meter rope will link the last four pitches into two.

P5. Move right on easy 5th class ground to next belay. 5.4.

P6. Up and left on a grove, following bolts and placing a micro cam to pro the crux. 10c.

P7. A corner/groove to a bolt, move right and up back left to belay. 5.9.

P8. Right to a fixed pin, then face climb to a bolt and up a corner (#3 cam) to the top. 10b.






Essential Gear

All belays are bolted but there are no chains or rings. A dozen draws and/or slings plus a rack of cams .5 to #3, a set of nuts. Tat and/or rap rings to back up the anchors if rapping. We left fresh cord on the anchors of P2 and P4 on on 8/08. Double ropes to rap or retreat.

Images

Dreambed P1