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Droga po Glazach

 
Droga po Glazach

Page Type: Route

Location: Poland/Slovakia, Europe

Object Title: Droga po Glazach

Route Type: easy rock climbing

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: UIAA I

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: dynercia

Created/Edited: Oct 26, 2005 / Oct 26, 2005

Object ID: 167276

Hits: 5894 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Approach


The usually start point for this trip is Morskie Oko Hut (1406) situated in the highest part of Rybiego Potoku Valley. The hut is easily accessible by the red marked route leading from Palenica Bialczanska przed Morskim Okiem (here you can get by bus from Zakopane). The view from hut’s window is really worth to see.

Route Description


”Droga po Glazach” is the one of easiest way on The Mieguszowiecki Szczyt, used by climbers as a descend way. But unfortunately this way is not easy to find.

From The Morskie Oko take the red marked trial to Czarny Staw (the left/east variant is a bit shorter) (about 1h) and next green marks on Mieguszowiecka Przelecz Pod Chlopkiem (2 h). From this place, if you are not a member of a climbing club, you need a Tatra guide (see red tape on the main page).

Now, turn right (west) and scramble up a treaded path going by a ridge to the first place, where the ridge becomes steep (UIAA 0).

From here go decreased, not good visible path, through a lateral rib, till you reach wide, distinct, scree-grassy ramp, going obliquely up to the Posredni Mieguszowiecki Szczyt’s ridge. Cross on the left and follow up this ramp about 50 m (still in left direction) to a flat projection (cairn) (UIAA 0+).

Now, again climb down still in the west direction, first by a corner (“open book”) and next by a system of chutes and walls to the next big ramp (cairns). When you reach this ramp you find yourself exactly below The Posrednia Mieguszowiecka Przelecz (the pass between The Mieguszowiecki Szczyt and The Posredni Mieguszowiecki Szczyt) (UIAA I).

Follow up this ramp to the end (about 200m) till you reach the west ridge of The Mieguszowiecki Szczyt (UIAA I).

Now, turn right (east) and climbe the exposed ridge to the summit (about 100m) (UIAA I) (2h).

Essential Gear


in summer: normal hiking gear, for not good climbers rope and a few loops can be useful on exposed part of ridge
in winter: crampons, ice axe, rope, a few loops and ice srews

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Posrednia Mieguszowiecka lawkaDescending Mieguszowiecki Szczyt PosredniMieguszowiecki Szczyt and...South face of Mieguszowiecki...