Monterosa h. - Sattel- Dufouspitze - Silbersattel - Monterosa h Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2016
Long long sunny day, acsending to the summit from Monterosa hutte via Sattel, descending back to the hutte via culoir to Silbersattel.
Upper parts of west rigde exposed to wind, not very compact ice/rock.
Managed to squeeze into the end of a very short week in the Mattertal, right at the end of the season. We camped at 3000m some 200m above the (old) Monte Rosa Hut, then lugged all our gear to the summit, intending to complete the traverse, down the SE ridge into Italy. But the summit crest was plastered in unstable powder snow and it was bitterly cold - and we decided to descend back the way we had come. The following day it snowed down as low as Zermatt - winter had arrived!
Particularly now, having finally climbed the SE ridge (in the other direction) I recognise that the decision I made 21 years ago, to turn back at the summit of Dufour and not attempt the traverse, was the right one in the conditions we had.
"As an adolescent I aspired to lasting fame, I craved factual certainty, and I thirsted for a meaningful vision of human life - so I became a scientist. This is like becoming an archbishop so you can meet girls."