great snow conditions,good weather but very windy and cold day.Me and my colleague Ania reached the ridge and backed from the last snow pitch before the summit because of Ania's problems with frozen hands and feet.Very long way down via deep and big cravesses made impression on us.Mountain worth of coming back
Buthrakaur - Mar 26, 2010 4:45 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2009
normal route
Perfect weather, nice climb.
project360 - Oct 14, 2009 11:17 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2009
Best climb so far...
Perfect night, great climb, I love the mountains
mooliczek - Aug 27, 2009 11:28 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2009
Normal Route from MRH
We had an incredible luck with only one day of a good weather. Started at 3:30 AM from a bivy at Untere Plattje, we reached the summit 7 hours later. Great snow conditions at start, got bit nasty later on, in the afternoon. The summit ridge was mid-covered with snow, some tough ice found also there. We got back to our bivy at 4 PM. Very satisfied!
Trip report (in Polish) and some pictures from our climb - see here
philo - Aug 22, 2009 3:57 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2009
Polish day on Dufourspitze
We climbed Dufourspitze via normal route from our tents puttend on 3300 m (above Monte Rosa Hutte). It was a polish day on that mountain becasuse all 4 teams that climbed it via normal route were polish.
hernberg - Aug 22, 2009 4:01 am Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2009
On the summit at sunrise
Normal route from our camp above the monte rosa hut
Made it to the beginning of the rock above the icy slope around 4500m and had to turn back due to temps of -13C & winds around 100k/hr. We had to turn back the day before much lower down also due to poor conditions. 50cm of fresh snow on the glaciers also made the going a bit more difficult. Despite tough conditions and missing the summit, it was a tremendous climb with unparalleled scenery!
Climbed from a bivouac site a few hundred meters above the Monte Rosa hut. Cold, windy (especially the summit ridge), lots of snow on the summit ridge. Some tricky solo climbing on the ridge. Great views! The weather closed in as soon as I climbed down from the summit.
bc44caesar - Jul 9, 2008 4:54 am Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2008
Normal Route, Traverse to Margherita Hut
Started at the Margherita Hut at 3am, reached the summit around 10:30am. The traverse looked dicey, with a lot of snow-covered rock and unprotected moves, which, while easy, were often quite exposed. Long day, but rather exciting.
Riccardo - Feb 11, 2008 4:14 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2004
gharley - Aug 27, 2007 1:05 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2007
Normal Route
The ascent was great. 14 of 18 climbers summitted that morning. It took Scott and I 7hrs 15 min to summit from Monte Rosa hut. Most decended down the east side between Nordend and Dufour, though we took the west ridge back due to a traffic jam. The down hill was long but we could glissade a bit. After a beer and some recovery time, we hiked back to Rotenboden to get back to town. The hike back to Rotenboden felt MUCH MUCH longer than on the way to the hut!
Tips: definitely scout out the moraine and crevasses the day before you climb. the path to ob plattje goes straight up through the middle of the moraine. follow the cairns.
I have a much more detailed account, pics, and video of the climb on my blog, though it could be considered a spoiler, your choice. http://gabeharley.blogspot.com
jvdm - Aug 19, 2007 5:36 am Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2007
Dufourspitze
It is a long way from the Monte Rosa hut but the summit is so nice! Descended by the fixed rope on the east face. This contributed to the fun. I don't think the summit ridge is very nice on a windy day.
mulidivarese - Jul 30, 2007 3:39 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2007
take a dream
I have planned this climbing for many years. And every year there was something wrong that did not allowed me to take the challange.
also this year it seemed to be another time the wrong time but....
From Monterosahutte toghether with Daniele and Carlo. 5 hours and 30 min.
Wonderfull day, perfect snow, no wind. We climbed the normal way from Monterosahutte and then we went down by the roops on the Silbersattle side. Very convinient
Valerio
Griffiths - Jun 5, 2007 8:01 am Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2005
from Capanna Margherita
Windy so the ridge was concerning but the rock on the ascent was good. Very enjoyable
Britette - May 25, 2007 2:20 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 1996
Dufourspitze Traverse E to W
Climbed the SE arete and descended the W arete as part of a single day traverse of Monte Rosa Group from Klein Matterhorn to Nordend.
toppert - Nov 16, 2006 12:40 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2004
Marinelli-couloir
Nice climb in the last days of the saison. From the Mrainelli-bivouac, across the Marinelli-couloir to the Dufourspitze, then down to Zermatt and hitchhiked back to our car near Mattmark-stausee (near Saas).
Hit&Run from Holland when the conditions where perfect. I climbed with Maarten Pluymaekers.
DoJo - Nov 12, 2006 5:15 pm Date Climbed: Jul 13, 1997
I climbed normal route of Dufouspitze with my friend Pepe in 2001. In 7 days we climbed Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa and Matterhorn. Both very very happy.
The route is very beautiful. Is a complete climb, glacier, rock-ridge, ice-rigge. More beautiful thhan Mont Blanc!
Ivona - Sep 17, 2010 12:48 pm Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2010
start from bivy at Utere Plattjegreat snow conditions,good weather but very windy and cold day.Me and my colleague Ania reached the ridge and backed from the last snow pitch before the summit because of Ania's problems with frozen hands and feet.Very long way down via deep and big cravesses made impression on us.Mountain worth of coming back
Buthrakaur - Mar 26, 2010 4:45 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2009
normal routePerfect weather, nice climb.
project360 - Oct 14, 2009 11:17 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2009
Best climb so far...Perfect night, great climb, I love the mountains
mooliczek - Aug 27, 2009 11:28 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2009
Normal Route from MRHWe had an incredible luck with only one day of a good weather. Started at 3:30 AM from a bivy at Untere Plattje, we reached the summit 7 hours later. Great snow conditions at start, got bit nasty later on, in the afternoon. The summit ridge was mid-covered with snow, some tough ice found also there. We got back to our bivy at 4 PM. Very satisfied!
Trip report (in Polish) and some pictures from our climb - see here
philo - Aug 22, 2009 3:57 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2009
Polish day on DufourspitzeWe climbed Dufourspitze via normal route from our tents puttend on 3300 m (above Monte Rosa Hutte). It was a polish day on that mountain becasuse all 4 teams that climbed it via normal route were polish.
hernberg - Aug 22, 2009 4:01 am Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2009
On the summit at sunriseNormal route from our camp above the monte rosa hut
cackalackyclimber - Aug 10, 2009 1:53 pm Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2008
Normal RouteMade it to the beginning of the rock above the icy slope around 4500m and had to turn back due to temps of -13C & winds around 100k/hr. We had to turn back the day before much lower down also due to poor conditions. 50cm of fresh snow on the glaciers also made the going a bit more difficult. Despite tough conditions and missing the summit, it was a tremendous climb with unparalleled scenery!
JanVanGenk - Jul 14, 2009 12:15 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2009
Normal routeClimbed from a bivouac site a few hundred meters above the Monte Rosa hut. Cold, windy (especially the summit ridge), lots of snow on the summit ridge. Some tricky solo climbing on the ridge. Great views! The weather closed in as soon as I climbed down from the summit.
bc44caesar - Jul 9, 2008 4:54 am Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2008
Normal Route, Traverse to Margherita HutStarted at the Margherita Hut at 3am, reached the summit around 10:30am. The traverse looked dicey, with a lot of snow-covered rock and unprotected moves, which, while easy, were often quite exposed. Long day, but rather exciting.
Riccardo - Feb 11, 2008 4:14 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2004
From Capanna MargheritaA wonderful day :-)
Panoramic views from Dufour
Cyrill - Nov 9, 2007 3:09 am Date Climbed: May 23, 2005
Dufourspitze 4634mBeautiful Skitour to Dufourspitze 4634m.
my picture are here: Link to Dufourspitze 4634m
gharley - Aug 27, 2007 1:05 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2007
Normal RouteThe ascent was great. 14 of 18 climbers summitted that morning. It took Scott and I 7hrs 15 min to summit from Monte Rosa hut. Most decended down the east side between Nordend and Dufour, though we took the west ridge back due to a traffic jam. The down hill was long but we could glissade a bit. After a beer and some recovery time, we hiked back to Rotenboden to get back to town. The hike back to Rotenboden felt MUCH MUCH longer than on the way to the hut!
Tips: definitely scout out the moraine and crevasses the day before you climb. the path to ob plattje goes straight up through the middle of the moraine. follow the cairns.
I have a much more detailed account, pics, and video of the climb on my blog, though it could be considered a spoiler, your choice. http://gabeharley.blogspot.com
jvdm - Aug 19, 2007 5:36 am Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2007
DufourspitzeIt is a long way from the Monte Rosa hut but the summit is so nice! Descended by the fixed rope on the east face. This contributed to the fun. I don't think the summit ridge is very nice on a windy day.
mulidivarese - Jul 30, 2007 3:39 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2007
take a dreamI have planned this climbing for many years. And every year there was something wrong that did not allowed me to take the challange.
also this year it seemed to be another time the wrong time but....
From Monterosahutte toghether with Daniele and Carlo. 5 hours and 30 min.
Wonderfull day, perfect snow, no wind. We climbed the normal way from Monterosahutte and then we went down by the roops on the Silbersattle side. Very convinient
Valerio
Griffiths - Jun 5, 2007 8:01 am Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2005
from Capanna MargheritaWindy so the ridge was concerning but the rock on the ascent was good. Very enjoyable
Britette - May 25, 2007 2:20 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 1996
Dufourspitze Traverse E to WClimbed the SE arete and descended the W arete as part of a single day traverse of Monte Rosa Group from Klein Matterhorn to Nordend.
toppert - Nov 16, 2006 12:40 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2004
Marinelli-couloirNice climb in the last days of the saison. From the Mrainelli-bivouac, across the Marinelli-couloir to the Dufourspitze, then down to Zermatt and hitchhiked back to our car near Mattmark-stausee (near Saas).
Hit&Run from Holland when the conditions where perfect. I climbed with Maarten Pluymaekers.
DoJo - Nov 12, 2006 5:15 pm Date Climbed: Jul 13, 1997
Route Climbed - from SilbersattelAscend via Silbersattel from Monte Rosa Hütte
David_Holland - Jul 15, 2006 2:40 pm Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2006
traverseClimb it from Zumstein, make traverse to the Monte Rosa hut, great day! Second time on the summit.
Trabalon - Feb 28, 2006 5:20 pm
Normal RouteI climbed normal route of Dufouspitze with my friend Pepe in 2001. In 7 days we climbed Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa and Matterhorn. Both very very happy.
The route is very beautiful. Is a complete climb, glacier, rock-ridge, ice-rigge. More beautiful thhan Mont Blanc!