Dufourspitze Climber's Log
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|bc44caesar||Normal Route, Traverse to Margherita Hut |
Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2008
|Started at the Margherita Hut at 3am, reached the summit around 10:30am. The traverse looked dicey, with a lot of snow-covered rock and unprotected moves, which, while easy, were often quite exposed. Long day, but rather exciting.|
|Posted Jul 9, 2008 4:54 am|
|Riccardo||From Capanna Margherita |
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2004
|A wonderful day :-)|
Panoramic views from Dufour
|Posted Feb 11, 2008 4:14 am|
|Cyrill||Dufourspitze 4634m |
Date Climbed: May 23, 2005
|Beautiful Skitour to Dufourspitze 4634m. |
my picture are here: Link to Dufourspitze 4634m
|Posted Nov 9, 2007 3:09 am|
|gharley||Normal Route |
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2007
|The ascent was great. 14 of 18 climbers summitted that morning. It took Scott and I 7hrs 15 min to summit from Monte Rosa hut. Most decended down the east side between Nordend and Dufour, though we took the west ridge back due to a traffic jam. The down hill was long but we could glissade a bit. After a beer and some recovery time, we hiked back to Rotenboden to get back to town. The hike back to Rotenboden felt MUCH MUCH longer than on the way to the hut! |
Tips: definitely scout out the moraine and crevasses the day before you climb. the path to ob plattje goes straight up through the middle of the moraine. follow the cairns.
I have a much more detailed account, pics, and video of the climb on my blog, though it could be considered a spoiler, your choice. http://gabeharley.blogspot.com
|Posted Aug 27, 2007 1:05 pm|
Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2007
|It is a long way from the Monte Rosa hut but the summit is so nice! Descended by the fixed rope on the east face. This contributed to the fun. I don't think the summit ridge is very nice on a windy day.|
|Posted Aug 19, 2007 5:36 am|
|mulidivarese||take a dream |
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2007
|I have planned this climbing for many years. And every year there was something wrong that did not allowed me to take the challange.|
also this year it seemed to be another time the wrong time but....
From Monterosahutte toghether with Daniele and Carlo. 5 hours and 30 min.
Wonderfull day, perfect snow, no wind. We climbed the normal way from Monterosahutte and then we went down by the roops on the Silbersattle side. Very convinient
|Posted Jul 30, 2007 3:39 am|
|Griffiths||from Capanna Margherita |
Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2005
|Windy so the ridge was concerning but the rock on the ascent was good. Very enjoyable|
|Posted Jun 5, 2007 8:01 am|
|Britette||Dufourspitze Traverse E to W |
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 1996
|Climbed the SE arete and descended the W arete as part of a single day traverse of Monte Rosa Group from Klein Matterhorn to Nordend.|
|Posted May 25, 2007 2:20 pm|
Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2004
|Nice climb in the last days of the saison. From the Mrainelli-bivouac, across the Marinelli-couloir to the Dufourspitze, then down to Zermatt and hitchhiked back to our car near Mattmark-stausee (near Saas).|
Hit&Run from Holland when the conditions where perfect. I climbed with Maarten Pluymaekers.
|Posted Nov 16, 2006 12:40 pm|
|DoJo||Route Climbed - from Silbersattel |
Date Climbed: Jul 13, 1997
|Ascend via Silbersattel from Monte Rosa Hütte|
|Posted Nov 12, 2006 5:15 pm|
Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2006
|Climb it from Zumstein, make traverse to the Monte Rosa hut, great day! Second time on the summit.|
|Posted Jul 15, 2006 2:40 pm|
|I climbed normal route of Dufouspitze with my friend Pepe in 2001. In 7 days we climbed Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa and Matterhorn. Both very very happy.|
The route is very beautiful. Is a complete climb, glacier, rock-ridge, ice-rigge. More beautiful thhan Mont Blanc!
|Posted Feb 28, 2006 5:20 pm|
|EQUUS||Route Climbed: Normal Route from MonterosaHutte by Sattle Date Climbed: Aug 1996|
|Long exposed tour. After descent we were so exhausted that we decided to stay next night in the hutte.|
|Posted Nov 6, 2005 6:04 pm|
|TodoVertical||Route Climbed: Normal (Guiding) Date Climbed: Some day of July 2005|
|We were the only ones of 9 parties to summit that day. Wind, cold, sonw, ..... bad, bad, bad day !!!|
|Posted Sep 22, 2005 2:58 pm|
|athpal||Route Climbed: Normal from Monte Rosa Hut Date Climbed: 16 August 2005|
|After a snowfall in the previous evening we woke up at 1:30 a.m. with a perfect weather. We started our way up at 3:30 a.m.. The view in the way up and in the ridge was perfect and the weather conditions were very good but a little windy. Perfect summit day !|
|Posted Aug 22, 2005 6:15 am|
|brade||Route Climbed: Normal from Monte Rosa Htt. Date Climbed: 31 July 2005|
|With Marius Alba from Romania. We met for the first time the day before summit attack. We did it in 5 hours to the summit. Perfect weather. Nice rocks at the last part before summit. The party at Camping in Zermatt was great :)|
|Posted Aug 8, 2005 2:08 pm|
|Samuli Mansikka||Route Climbed: Normal from Monte Rosa Hut Date Climbed: June 17th|
|We were seriously prepared to make the traverse over Dufourspitze and on to Zumsteinspitze and further on to the Monte Rosa Traverse.|
Camped at the 4300 m on the glacier and started early the next morning.
Wind was really strong and the snow conditions a bit difficult and restraining. The snow pack had a 2-3 cm ice coating which did not support your weight. Instead you punged through the knee deep wet snow.
The rocky ridge was as beautiful as before and we made it to the top in pretty good time.
The ridge down towards Zumsteinspitze was coated with a thick pack of loose snow. After trying it out for a while we decided that it would take us too much time to descend and then make it to the Margerita Hut.
So we descended the couloir from the summit of Dufourspitze to the Silbersattel and set our camp there. The highest camping I've done in the Alps and what a setting!
|Posted Jul 18, 2005 4:53 am|
|bbirtle||Route Climbed: Normal Route (From Monte Rosa Hutte) Date Climbed: May 8, 2005|
|Long and cold climb (on skis). Fierce winds on the summit ridge almost nixed it, but we battled through and made it. One 10m section of fixed ropes just before the summit, other than that just some scrambling. Really amazing ski down in about 30cm fresh to the hut, really ardouraous walk carrying skis all the way down to Zermatt, as the snow cut out at the end of the Gorneglaciar. Great climb!|
|Posted Jul 7, 2005 12:20 pm|
|JanG||Route Climbed: Normal Route from 4100m Date Climbed: August 14, 2004|
|Here is a great alternative to the very long normal route to the summit of Monte Rosa: take a helicopter most of the way and then save your endurance for the final ridge and the long descent back to town! |
I had come to Zermatt with my sons to climb the Matterhorn. We reached the summit via the Hörnli ridge on Aug. 10, 2004 and just rested from the previous exhausting climb for the next 3 days. My sons had achieved their objective so I was unable to convince them to embark on another long trek up the normal route (via the Monte Rosa hut) to the Dufourspitze . Our local guide suggested the following compromise: a helicopter ride (provided by Air Zermatt) until to the Monte Rosa saddle, and then the use of our legs for the rest of the climb. It sounded like a great idea because in that way we would save a lot of energy and the cost of the overnight stay at the hut. Those savings, however, were outbalanced by the extra cost of the helicopter flight.
Therefore, on the last morning of our fortnight stay we woke up in the cozy beds at our pension and met the guide at the Helipad in town [alt. 1620m] at 8:00. It was a gorgeous, clear and hot summer day in the valley but higher up it was quite a different situation. The helicopter took us in less than 15 minutes to 4100m where it was cold and very windy. Fortunately we had taken appropriate clothing and extra wind protection in our backpacks. The ridge which leads to the summit was quite easy when compared to the Hörnli ridge. We arrived at the Dufourspitze [alt. 4634m] at 10:30 and enjoyed the spectacular views in all directions.
We were able to fully enjoy the dramatic seracs and other glacial formations on our descent on foot because we had not expended as much energy on the climb due to the helicopter ride. We arrived at 14:30 at the Monte Rosa hut [2795m] and had a very leisurely lunch. Finally we proceeded to the glacier crossings (Grenzgletscher and Gornergletscher) and up the steep hiking trail to the Rotenboden station (of the Gornergrat train) where we arrived at 19:00. It was a long but unforgettable last day for a memorable stay in Zermatt.
|Posted Nov 10, 2004 9:46 pm|
|BobK||Route Climbed: Normal Route from Mt. Rosa Hut Date Climbed: August 5,1980|
|Climbed solo. Began at 01:00, I was the second party to get underway. Heavy snow year kept route closed till the previous week, but today the tracks in the snow were deep and obvious. Saw a fantastic sunrise over the Alps; bit tricky getting past the bergschrund and onto the summit ridge rock. Alone at the top for over 1 hour, then down the glacier all the time thinking "I'm crazy for doing this by myself -in the dark!"|
|Posted Nov 9, 2004 7:19 am|