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E-rib

 

Page Type: Route

Location: Urner Alpen, Switzerland, Europe

Object Title: E-rib

Route Type: Basic rock / ice climb

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: ZS

Route Quality: 
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Page By: kletterwebbi

Created/Edited: Nov 21, 2003 / Nov 21, 2003

Object ID: 159432

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Overview


This is a long, interesting, technical easy but somewhat wild route. It's done very seldom (I made it in summer 2003, it was the first ascent since 7 years) and persons who like such lonesome routes will like it. The first thing is to reach the base of the Eggstock E-face going up the Dammagletscher. Then the Eggstock E-face have to be climbed. After that the (easy) traverse to the Dammastock has to be done. The descent via a bolted abseil at the Dammastock E-face brings one back to the Dammagletscher. After the final glacier walk the tour ends at the Dammahütte.

The Eggstock is one of the secondary summits of the main Dammastock-range north of the Dammastock. Seen from the Dammahütte it is the last visible northern summit of that ridge. The E-face of the Eggstock is only recommended when covered with snow. Without snow the rock is very bad/broken. Best time is spring / early summer.

Approach


Trailhead is Göschenen / Göschener Alp (big parking area, the upper parking is expensive, the lower is without parking fee). From there one have to hike to the Dammahütte. There are two possibilities: north and south of the lake (both will need about 3 hours). The taril south of the lake is recommended (more comfortable). After hiking along the lake one will reach the base of a little hill with the Dammahütte (visible) at the top (1-2 hours). There both lake-trails are joining. Following the steep trail brings one finally to the hut.

Route Description


Start at the Dammahütte (trails from Göschener See, see main section). NW of the hut a path (blue signs) starts direction Dammagletscher. Following this trail brings one to the glacier. Go up the glacier alltimes left of the rock ridge until a small col at the end of this rock ridge is reachable. From that col turn left (north) and cross the glacier (crevases, sometimes ice fall) to the base of the Eggstock E-face.

The route at the Eggstock E-face is simply straight foreward: just follow a kind of rock ridge/buttress up to the summit. On good conditions this ridge is covered by snow. Without snow there is very (!) broken rock. Only recommended in spring / early summer with snow.

From the top of the Eggstock the summit of the Dammastock is visible south of the Eggstock (there is a cross at the summit of the Dammastock). Traversing on harmless glacier slopes (only few crevasses) to the beginn of the summit (rock) ridge of the Dammastock main summit. There the abseil of the e-face of the Dammastock starts, blue signs, bolts.

Most partys will continue to the summit of the Dammastock on very easy rock before abseiling down.

Essential Gear


Double rope (descent !), crampons, ice axe, helmet

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.