| We combined the first two pitches, 5-6 and 7-8 for a total of 6 vs 9 to the final rap station. I led that first 5.10c and combined the aid pitch with that 5.10b pitch. Thought both were full value leads. We enjoyed that last pitch and did not fear that first bolt nor thought the pitch was hard to protect. I thought the existing bolts were well placed actually. Just take some double length slings for the aid and you will be set. The transition to free climbing to reach the anchor is awkward. The climbing after that is a bit pumpy as well if you are combining these pitches as I did. The best approach for this wall folks is to hike up the Painted Bowl walk off and then scramble up easy rock to the shoulder below Rainbow Buttress. Much quicker and direct than any other option. If you really think this approach is bad, don't visit the Canadian Rockies for rock routes. |
Red Rock Climbing > Eagle Wall, 5.8-5.11d > Eagle Dance, 5.10c, A0, 9 Pitches > Climber's Log