Length of Climb
First Ascent : 25 January 1953
W.D.Brooker, T.W.Patey and J.H.Taylor
The legendary trio climbed the whole route in a mere 4.5 hours demonstrating how well they had mastered the art of climbing technical Scottish buttresses in winter. Combined tactics were used on the tower pitch and summer crux. (First free ascent unknown)
From Spittal of Glenmuick bear right immediately after the visitor centre and head along the land rover track to the small out-house of the Alt-na-giubhsaich. Continue in the same direction through the pretty pine forest for a short distance until you re-emerge onto another land rover track. Follow this for about 3km to a fork in the track. Head left along a smaller path which drops down slightly before a steady 2km climb brings you to the saddle between Meikle Pap and Lochnagar. From here views of the cliffs are spectacular and this makes a pleasant spot for a break. From the saddle head down into the coire picking your way through the boulders to a first aid box (only open in an emergency) and avalanche probes. This is the usual "gearing up" place. Eagle Ridge is the obvious tapering ridge to the right of Douglas-Gibson Gully.
Rising spectacularly from the coire floor in a series of beautifully corniced aretes and steep walls, Eagle Ridge is one of Scotland's most sought after winter climbs. The ridge is a very serious undertaking, especially in powder snow and should only be attempted by strong parties.
For a detailed route description see the summer route. The Tower constitutes the crux pitch. The summer crux is often avoided by climbing on the right, away from the crest ( known as the Dundee Route ) however strong and confident parties should not miss this pitch as it provides one of the highlights of the climb. The final pitch is usually climbed by a corner to the right of the summer climb.
Normal winter kit including:
>Map (OS Landranger 44 or Explorer 388)
>Survival / bivi bag
Essential climbing gear:
> 2 ice axes
>Full rock rack
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.