East Arete Climber's Log

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Diggler

Diggler - Jun 1, 2013 2:29 pm Date Climbed: May 31, 2013

Exceptional route  Sucess!

A highly enjoyable route! I would definitely recommend doing the lower portion as well (possibly more fun than the upper section). It should be noted that if the lower section is done, the downclimbing and traversing to get to the base of the upper ridge is likely the crux of the climb (5.6?). Also, this is not Yosemite! Be careful & test your holds- while there ARE sections of quality rock, there is much choss on the route, as well as MANY blocks that are somehow (currently) balanced, & just waiting for their equilibrium to be disturbed, so they can become talus... The large basin to the south, accessed via the notch between the upper and lower ridges, provides a much easier way of getting back to the trailhead.

Darren9

Darren9 - May 24, 2012 3:47 am Date Climbed: May 12, 2012

Hidden gem  Sucess!

This route is a great climb: scenic, aesthetic, interesting, with a fun finish. Definitely a good one and all the better when you can get snow at the start and finish as we did in May.

Vitaliy M.

Vitaliy M. - Jun 19, 2011 2:22 pm Date Climbed: Feb 13, 2011

Full arete  Sucess!

full east arete 5.5 as a winter climb. with mark t.

PellucidWombat

PellucidWombat - Feb 14, 2011 12:21 pm Date Climbed: Feb 13, 2011

Full East Arete in Winter  Sucess!

Vitaliy and I started at the saddle between Magic McGee & the 13,000 ft subpeak and climbed the entire ridge. Boots & packs made it more fun. So did the snow cave bivy from 100' below the summit plateau.

bighornmonkey

bighornmonkey - Sep 9, 2009 7:08 pm Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009

Plan D worked  Sucess!

That was the only trailhead that had room for 4 from Bishop....darn Labor day weekend!
I am glad we did it though. It was adventurous with no map, no compass, no topo. We followed our instict and that worked. Really fun climb.

sierrasclimber

sierrasclimber - Apr 7, 2009 10:29 pm

Failed

Did all the lower 4th class ridge but too cold and late to top out.

glahhg

glahhg - Aug 27, 2007 3:24 pm Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2006

East Arete  Sucess!

Awesome climb. We brought a short skinny rope and superlight rack and it was more than enough. Went down the gully instead of reversing the arete and ended up having to climb a few ridges getting back around the mountain.

gregoryv

gregoryv - Nov 8, 2006 12:06 am Date Climbed: Nov 6, 2006

Humphreys

Climbed the East Arete to the last technical section before the summit at 13,000'. Bailed due to lack of time and a bit of snow. Great route, however.

DustysDawg

DustysDawg - Jul 13, 2006 4:15 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2006

East Arete  Sucess!

Soloed entire East Arete. Descended/downclimbed the entire East Arete also, rather than deal with the snow in the normal descent gully. 4:40 from car to summit, and 4:30 from summit back to car.
Easy climbing, with nothing harder than maybe 5.5. Some loose and grainy stuff, but mostly solid rock. Worth doing. Great workout.

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