Diggler - Jun 1, 2013 2:29 pm Date Climbed: May 31, 2013
Exceptional route
A highly enjoyable route! I would definitely recommend doing the lower portion as well (possibly more fun than the upper section). It should be noted that if the lower section is done, the downclimbing and traversing to get to the base of the upper ridge is likely the crux of the climb (5.6?). Also, this is not Yosemite! Be careful & test your holds- while there ARE sections of quality rock, there is much choss on the route, as well as MANY blocks that are somehow (currently) balanced, & just waiting for their equilibrium to be disturbed, so they can become talus... The large basin to the south, accessed via the notch between the upper and lower ridges, provides a much easier way of getting back to the trailhead.
Darren9 - May 24, 2012 3:47 am Date Climbed: May 12, 2012
Hidden gem
This route is a great climb: scenic, aesthetic, interesting, with a fun finish. Definitely a good one and all the better when you can get snow at the start and finish as we did in May.
Vitaliy M. - Jun 19, 2011 2:22 pm Date Climbed: Feb 13, 2011
Full arete
full east arete 5.5 as a winter climb. with mark t.
PellucidWombat - Feb 14, 2011 12:21 pm Date Climbed: Feb 13, 2011
Full East Arete in Winter
Vitaliy and I started at the saddle between Magic McGee & the 13,000 ft subpeak and climbed the entire ridge. Boots & packs made it more fun. So did the snow cave bivy from 100' below the summit plateau.
That was the only trailhead that had room for 4 from Bishop....darn Labor day weekend!
I am glad we did it though. It was adventurous with no map, no compass, no topo. We followed our instict and that worked. Really fun climb.
Did all the lower 4th class ridge but too cold and late to top out.
glahhg - Aug 27, 2007 3:24 pm Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2006
East Arete
Awesome climb. We brought a short skinny rope and superlight rack and it was more than enough. Went down the gully instead of reversing the arete and ended up having to climb a few ridges getting back around the mountain.
gregoryv - Nov 8, 2006 12:06 am Date Climbed: Nov 6, 2006
Humphreys
Climbed the East Arete to the last technical section before the summit at 13,000'. Bailed due to lack of time and a bit of snow. Great route, however.
DustysDawg - Jul 13, 2006 4:15 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2006
East Arete
Soloed entire East Arete. Descended/downclimbed the entire East Arete also, rather than deal with the snow in the normal descent gully. 4:40 from car to summit, and 4:30 from summit back to car.
Easy climbing, with nothing harder than maybe 5.5. Some loose and grainy stuff, but mostly solid rock. Worth doing. Great workout.
Diggler - Jun 1, 2013 2:29 pm Date Climbed: May 31, 2013
Exceptional routeA highly enjoyable route! I would definitely recommend doing the lower portion as well (possibly more fun than the upper section). It should be noted that if the lower section is done, the downclimbing and traversing to get to the base of the upper ridge is likely the crux of the climb (5.6?). Also, this is not Yosemite! Be careful & test your holds- while there ARE sections of quality rock, there is much choss on the route, as well as MANY blocks that are somehow (currently) balanced, & just waiting for their equilibrium to be disturbed, so they can become talus... The large basin to the south, accessed via the notch between the upper and lower ridges, provides a much easier way of getting back to the trailhead.
Darren9 - May 24, 2012 3:47 am Date Climbed: May 12, 2012
Hidden gemThis route is a great climb: scenic, aesthetic, interesting, with a fun finish. Definitely a good one and all the better when you can get snow at the start and finish as we did in May.
Vitaliy M. - Jun 19, 2011 2:22 pm Date Climbed: Feb 13, 2011
Full aretefull east arete 5.5 as a winter climb. with mark t.
PellucidWombat - Feb 14, 2011 12:21 pm Date Climbed: Feb 13, 2011
Full East Arete in WinterVitaliy and I started at the saddle between Magic McGee & the 13,000 ft subpeak and climbed the entire ridge. Boots & packs made it more fun. So did the snow cave bivy from 100' below the summit plateau.
bighornmonkey - Sep 9, 2009 7:08 pm Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009
Plan D workedThat was the only trailhead that had room for 4 from Bishop....darn Labor day weekend!
I am glad we did it though. It was adventurous with no map, no compass, no topo. We followed our instict and that worked. Really fun climb.
sierrasclimber - Apr 7, 2009 10:29 pm
FailedDid all the lower 4th class ridge but too cold and late to top out.
glahhg - Aug 27, 2007 3:24 pm Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2006
East AreteAwesome climb. We brought a short skinny rope and superlight rack and it was more than enough. Went down the gully instead of reversing the arete and ended up having to climb a few ridges getting back around the mountain.
gregoryv - Nov 8, 2006 12:06 am Date Climbed: Nov 6, 2006
HumphreysClimbed the East Arete to the last technical section before the summit at 13,000'. Bailed due to lack of time and a bit of snow. Great route, however.
DustysDawg - Jul 13, 2006 4:15 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2006
East AreteSoloed entire East Arete. Descended/downclimbed the entire East Arete also, rather than deal with the snow in the normal descent gully. 4:40 from car to summit, and 4:30 from summit back to car.
Easy climbing, with nothing harder than maybe 5.5. Some loose and grainy stuff, but mostly solid rock. Worth doing. Great workout.