East Buttress IV or IV+, 5.9 Date Climbed: August 24,25 1997 Date Climbed: Aug 25, 1997
Gerry Cox and I climbed this long, classic, and in the 1st RJ Secor's Edition, somewhat underrated ALPINE route (III,5.7) in 1997. We found 17 pitches with at least some 5.9 climbing, 500 feet of 4th class on the upper buttress, and ton of 3rd/4th scrambling on the summit ridge. Greg Vernon later said, haven't you guys climbed any other Al Greene routes? These guys were known for sandbagging! Really? Anyway, this is a reasonably good alpine route (with fairly short approach), especially if you can climb all these pitches in one day and descent the snow gully before it gets firm (IV+,5.9).
"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe