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East Buttress Climber's Log

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asmrzEast Buttress,Memorial Weekend, 1982
Date Climbed: May 31, 1982

asmrz

Miguel Carmona and I climbed the route in 1982, in some 6 hours with 2.5 hours to get down. The East Buttress is one of the classic early climbs in Yosemite and today it's a bit neglected. It should not be. It's a good route on good rock and in great location.
Posted Oct 15, 2012 6:01 pm

Vitaliy M.East Buttress  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 14, 2012

Vitaliy M.

Cool climb. Led 1st than 3/4 (linked), and evens after. 11 hours c2c (7 hours or so on route itself) from El Cap meadow. Descending East Ledges during day-light is a must (for the first time at least). Fun route. A lot of varied climbing.
Posted Oct 15, 2012 5:14 pm

zoomlocoonly way to free el cap  Sucess!

zoomloco

If you don't believe in aid, this the el cap route for you. while nominally 10b for a move or 2, stout 5.9 is more accurate. crux is the ow 5th pitch. 1st pitch is also a bit burl, as is the 5.8 roof...but if you're very solid on yosemite 5.9 you should definitely enjoy this one...
Posted Jul 16, 2011 6:43 pm

kovarpaexcellent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 10, 2010

kovarpa

climb, every pitch is interesting and makes you think. Climbed with Carol. I lead all pitches, got a full body workout. Started at 9am, finished at 7pm (slow).
Luckily we bumped into some guys who were familiar with the East Ledges descent, otherwise it would have been a painful walk down through Yosemite Falls trail...
Posted Oct 11, 2010 2:54 pm

Bonesaw37th Birthday  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2009

Bonesaw

Great route! 5.9 lieback felt a tad bit harder than short 10b section. Awesome exposure on the last few pitches!!!
Posted Oct 6, 2009 10:16 pm

atavistcrux for breakfast  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2008

atavist

- My partner and I climbed the route in 8 long pitches with a 60m(I led the odd pitches). The pitch description on the route page is right on. We combined pitch 7 and 8.
- To dodge the heat we started the approach around 5pm. Darkness fell while my partner was building the second anchor.
- We bivied on the small ledges near the second station. At first light, I rapped down and dropped our bivy gear and haul line then reclimbed the crux pitch. It was much more enjoyable during daylight hours and when I wasn't carrying my overnight pack.
- The 5.9 lieback and off-width on our 6th pitch felt hard (linked 8th and 9th pitch of the Reid guide). This whole pitch is fairly technical and well sustained.
- Our 7th pitch (start of 10th pitch of Reid guide) makes a sharp traverse to the right then drops and keeps going right another 10 feet before ascending. Use long runners and run it out, otherwise break it in two as described in most topos. We had to simul so I could reach the next belay ledge.
Posted Aug 25, 2008 2:33 pm

gremlinpolished  Sucess!

gremlin

too bad it follows a waterfall, since the only downside is the polished rock on the upper 2/3 of the route
Posted Dec 11, 2007 11:49 pm

MichaelJFun  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 9, 2007

MichaelJ

Climbed with Tom Fralich. Almost every pitch was interesting. I found the crux a bit trickier than expected but enjoyed the whole day.
Posted Oct 16, 2007 1:41 am

stoneman5classic  Sucess!

stoneman5

after a couple years out, this was a nice re-introduction to keep my psyched
Posted Sep 10, 2006 12:25 am

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