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East Couloir Climber's Log

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DebPerfect Conditions!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2017


The mosquitoes tried to ruin our day but we prevailed. Perfect perfect snow conditions for an easy climb of the east couloir. Such a great view with so much white junk out there. Second time summitting but much more fun than the southern ascent.
Posted Jul 16, 2017 12:50 pm

colinrEast Col  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2017


Lots of snow. Fun glissading. Great company. Refreshing swim in upper Horse Creek amidst snow.
Posted Jun 26, 2017 5:50 pm

jdmorehouseBoulder Field from Hell  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2015


The "glacier" was an unstable boulder field, as the ice was melting off beneath it at a rapid rate. Rock fall was a serious threat. The couloir was steep and full or loose rock and sand, but easier climbing was found along the right hand side. We were racing an incoming storm, and it began to snow while on the summit. We raced back down, and got below the snow. It didn't begin raining until we were nearly back down. I think the storm moved most of the smoke in the area out. Rain all night and into the next day.
Posted Sep 15, 2015 9:21 pm

CWesselsEast Col.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2012


I think the west couloir would have been better for scrambling; the steep scree isn't much fun without snow.
Posted Aug 9, 2012 4:46 am

RyanCampagnaFUN!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2012


climbed east couloir, descended via glissade on east face. Tons of fun, and a lot more snow coverage than I would have expected after such a crappy snowboarding season!
Posted Jul 2, 2012 3:20 pm

ElGrecoUp West couloir, down East couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2011


Summited with Ann and Mathew. Perfect weather and conditions! Camped at the tarn just under 10,000ft, which was only beginning to melt out. Lots of snow coverage for this time of year.

The West couloir is in great shape with largely consolidated snow and good coverage. 42 degrees on average, with some short slightly steeper sections. The ascent was straightforward, so Some sections were soft and deep - obviously this year's snowfall hasn't fully settled yet! It's going to be an awesome season.

From the notch, we dropped a few feet and ascended the obvious gully up and to the left. The climbing is 3rd-4th class, until you get to the top of the gully. The clibming then becomes spicy 4th class with the odd 5th class move thrown in. Of the available options there (1. Continue up and left on a steep, leaning slab with broken and loose granite "rods"; 2. Traverse over the right arete of the gully to unknown ground; 3. Traverse right over a steep tongue of hard snow into a very narrow sub-gully), we chose option 3. The snow won't be there later on in the year, obviously - the slope was steep but easily protected from rock on both ends. From the top of that sub-gully, we traversed right again under thin flakes, around a block (with a stunning, exposed right foot step move) and onto 3rd class ground and a small plateau just below the summit. There could well be an easier alternative to this, but it made for an exciting finish. We climbed a lot of the rock still in boots and crampons, using running belays on a 30m rope and slings, a cordelette and a small rack of cams and nuts. There is a LOT of loose and rotten rock here - be very careful what you pull and step on, and test it beforehand. The rock is also very sharp - shredded hands and gloves.

From the summit, we dropped down to the notch of the East couloir following 2nd class scree trails with some 3rd class sections - a straightforward affair. The East couloir was half melted out, so we descended on scree and snow. The angle was 35 degrees on average - an easy descent.

A stunning peak with a spectacular summit in a breathtaking setting - highly recommended.
Posted Nov 20, 2011 3:18 am

dkangasWinter in May  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 25, 2010
Had a cold, snowy day--11 degrees in the couloir! Some fun mixed climbing to the summit.
Posted Sep 8, 2011 2:00 am

Vitaliy M.fun  Sucess!

Vitaliy M.

fun solo dayhike out of Twin Lakes. Need to come back for N. Arete.
Posted Jun 28, 2011 5:07 pm

rhyangMay 2008  Sucess!


Snowcamped in the trees around 9400'. Couloir had a few melted out sections but was pretty nice overall. Nice scrambling too. Descended via Horse Creek Pass back to camp. Love this area.
Posted Dec 20, 2010 11:41 am

haishanski descent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 30, 2010


A fine ski descent, had to hike down thru rocks near the top. Warmed up the day before skiing Polemonium Pass near Doodad, still had powder.
Posted Oct 20, 2010 12:04 am

JustinWThat One!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2008


My first thoughts on seeing Matterhorn peak...Yeah I want to climb THAT ONE! Had a great time climbing with nickL. By far the best camp site ive ever stayed at, great views and clear skies.
Posted Jun 20, 2010 12:44 am

nickLFun time  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2009


Really cool route. We ended up camping out near a pond at about 9800 ft the first day. Amazing views once you get to the base of the Matterhorn glacer. No snow in the couloir by this time of year so we had to scratch our way up loose rocks. Best part of the climb was the last couple hundred feet once you get out of the couloir.
Posted Jun 12, 2010 4:19 pm

Darren9Recommended  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 22, 2010


The most recommended "standard" route to the summit. Fun and not too hard couloir and a rewarding finish over rock and snow to the summit.
Posted May 24, 2010 1:29 am

SKIDAMN!!!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2009


What an adventure!
Posted Dec 26, 2009 12:45 pm

WMLfun...even in a whiteout!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2009


Super fun, watch for the avys though!
Posted Jul 30, 2009 2:05 am

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