East Face Chutes

Stats

Distance: TBA (1-way)
Elevation Gain: TBA
Avg Slope of Chutes: 32^o for 500 ft

Approach

Butler Fork
Drive about 8 miles up Big Cottonwood Canyon. Just as Reynolds Flats comes into view, there will be a pullout on the north side of the road. This is the Butler Fork Trailhead. Park here and being hiking up the main trail.

Route Description

The east face of Mt Raymond has many broad snow chutes bordered by prominent rock ribs. The existence of a clear runout below and an easy approach makes this a fine snowclimb.

Take the Butler Fork trail. Make sure to take the west (left) drainage when the trail forks. Soon after this a saddle is reached, followed by a traverse across the base on Gobblers Knob along the Desolation Trail. This circumvents Mill A Basin.
Once you are below the series of rocky ribs, head up the chutes. The 2nd one from the left takes you directly up to the summit via a constantly 30 degree broad chute. The next chute right merges with this one, but with a steep constriction right before the merger. The chute angles to the right and opens up. From here, continue up to the main ridge and directly to the summit.

I have only done this as a winter climb - it probably isn't very enjoyable without snow cover.

If you are doing this route as a ski descent, take the East Ridge to the summit and choose any line down.

Essential Gear

Bring snowshoes and an ice axe. Crampons might be needed at certain times of the year.

This slope is avalanche prone and faces a dangerous aspect for the Wasatch Range. Be sure to bring a shovel, probe, and beacon and know how to use them. Better yet, go when conditions are safe and know how to check the snowpack stability before attempting this route.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.