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East Face Normal Route

 
East Face Normal Route

Page Type: Route

Location: Carnic Alps, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.47590°N / 13.13920°E

Object Title: East Face Normal Route

Route Type: Mountaineering

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: Class 4

Difficulty: UIAA II-, mostly I

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes
 

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Oct 18, 2005 / Mar 3, 2006

Object ID: 167180

Hits: 2313 

Page Score: 0%  - 0 Votes 

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Rating The Route (By Hiking Standards)

0. General: From cca 1732m to 2187m, exposition E. Marked (yellow marks), but not protected. Difficulties don't exceed UIAA II- degree (one detail, otherwise I). During the whole ascent we didn't put poles on our backpack. For a descent poles are very useful. Except good shoes you don't need any other equipment. Ascent in the morning can be hot, so have enough drink.
1. Effort: cca 500m (from the parking place above Val Aupa cca 1500m). From the Nuviernulis notch you will need less than 1h 30min, from Rif. Grauzaria good 2h 30min and from the parking place above Val Aupa 4h.
2. Power: 3 - Middle.
3. Psyche: 3 - Middle.
4. Orientation: 2 - easy.

Approach

The final part of the ascent starts on Forca Nuviernulis (notch), 1732m. This can be reached by the following variants:

- From Val Aupa. Parking place above Aupa valley, 727m, Rif. Grauzaria, 1250m, Foran de la Gjaline (saddle), 1503m, Nuviernulis notch, 1732m. Easy, marked path, 2h 45min.
- From Paularo. Parking place in Dioor, 675m, Casera del Mestri, 1512m, Nuviernulis notch, 1732m. Easy, marked path, 3h 30min. If coming from this side you can also do a shortcut. While Nuviernulis notch lies on the E side of Torre Nuviernulis, a marked path goes also through the ravine W of the tower directly up on the main ridge of Monte Sernio. I don't know how hard this shortcut is, but above on the ridge the crossroads is marked and a good path is descending down into the steep ravine.
- From the south. An endless valley is coming up the Nuviernulis saddle from the south. From Morolz on the Grauzaria side you'd have some 4h to the notch. By this ascent you don't need to go just on the saddle. A few minutes before the marked path goes left (west) towards the E face of Monte Sernio.

Route Description


Monte Sernio East face normal route (UIAA II-, mostly I).

From the Nuviernulis notch you descend some 20m towards the south where the marked path deters right (westwards) through pine-bushes. Is descends some more meters until the lowest rocks of Torre Nuviernulis are reached, then it starts ascending first quite steep then moderately until the main ridge of Monte Sernio is reached W of the Nuviernulis tower. The path continues in the same direction, soon hits the first steep rocky step and overcomes it in an easy climb.

Climbing over rocky steps and following a path over a steep terrain is allways exchanging and the route keeps close to the edge of Monte Sernio's beautiful NE face. Following good marks we ascend further up and reach a steep gorge, falling down into the NE face. It turns us left, the route goes into the ravine, which continues above the gorge and follows it a few more meters until the ravine is closed by a boulder. There we must exit towards right, climbing up by a narrow but short ledge. Difficulties don't exceed UIAA II- and at the end of the ledge there's also a wedge to install protection. Above the climb becomes even easier and the route goes left and away from the NE face edge. We cross some 50m into the east face, where the route scrambles up again. The terrain is unpleasant, crunchy, but not hard to climb. After passing a fine limestone plate the route turns right again, in few turns gains considerable height and hits the SE ridge again. Following the easy ridge directly up we soon see the first cross (the bigger one stands on the fore-summit), reach it, pass it and finally reach also the second, smaller cross on the main summit.

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

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