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East Face Normal Route

 
East Face Normal Route

Page Type: Route

Location: Carnic Alps, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.47590°N / 13.13920°E

Object Title: East Face Normal Route

Route Type: Mountaineering

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: Class 4

Difficulty: UIAA II-, mostly I

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes
 

 

Page By: Vid Pogachnik

Created/Edited: Oct 18, 2005 / Apr 12, 2015

Object ID: 167180

Hits: 2414 

Page Score: 0%  - 0 Votes 

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Introduction

The eastern ascent route on Monte Sernio is a very beautiful tour. It is diverse, the scenery is great and the ascent is also quite challenging for a hiker. But the tour can be also quite long. Monte Sernuio belongs to Paularo and from there this ascent goes quite around. But if you are staying in this mountain group for more than just one day, this is one of the first ascent options to consider.

Rating The Route (By Hiking Standards)

On the E ridge of Monte...
On the east ridge
0. General: From cca 1732 m to 2187 m, exposition E. Marked (yellow marks), but not protected. Difficulties don't exceed UIAA II- degree (one detail, otherwise I). During the whole ascent we didn't put poles on our backpack. For a descent poles are very useful. Except good shoes you don't need any other equipment. Ascent in the morning can be hot, so have enough to drink.

1. Effort: cca 500 m (from the parking place above Val Aupa cca 1500 m). From the Nuviernulis notch you will need less than 1 h 30 min, from Rif. Grauzaria good 2 h 30 min and from the parking place above Val Aupa 4 h.

2. Power: 3 - Middle.

3. Psyche: 3 - Middle.

4. Orientation: 2 - easy.

Approach

The final part of the ascent starts on Forca Nuviernulis (notch), 1732 m. This can be reached by the following variants:
  • From Val Aupa. Parking place above Aupa valley, 727 m, Rif. Grauzaria, 1250 m, Foran de la Gjaline (saddle), 1560 m, Nuviernulis notch, 1732 m. Easy, marked path, 2 h 45 min.
  • From Paularo. Parking place in Dioor, 675 m, Casera del Mestri, 1512 m, Nuviernulis notch, 1732 m. Easy, marked path, 3 h 30 min. If coming from this side you can also do a shortcut. While Nuviernulis notch lies on the E side of Torre Nuviernulis, a marked path goes also through the ravine W of the tower directly up on the main ridge of Monte Sernio. I don't know how hard this shortcut is, but above on the ridge the crossroads is marked and a good path is descending down into the steep ravine.
  • From the south. An endless valley is coming up the Nuviernulis saddle from the south. From Morolz on the Grauzaria side you'd have some 4 h to the notch. By this ascent you don't need to go just on the saddle. A few minutes before the marked path goes left (west) towards the E face of Monte Sernio.

Route Description

Monte Sernio East face normal...
Monte Sernio East face normal route (UIAA II-, mostly I).
Creta Grauzaria from the...
The path on Sernio
On the Eastern route to Monte...
Scenery
From the Nuviernulis notch you descend some 20m towards the south where the marked path deters right (westwards) through pine-bushes. Is descends some more meters until the lowest rocks of Torre Nuviernulis are reached, then it starts ascending first quite steep then moderately until the main ridge of Monte Sernio is reached W of the Nuviernulis tower. The path continues in the same direction, soon hits the first steep rocky step and overcomes it in an easy climb.

Climbing over rocky steps and following a path over a steep terrain is allways exchanging and the route keeps close to the edge of Monte Sernio's beautiful NE face. Following good marks we ascend further up and reach a steep gorge, falling down into the NE face. It turns us left, the route goes into the ravine, which continues above the gorge and follows it a few more meters until the ravine is closed by a boulder. There we must exit towards right, climbing up by a narrow but short ledge. Difficulties don't exceed UIAA II- and at the end of the ledge there's also a wedge to install protection. Above the climb becomes even easier and the route goes left and away from the NE face edge. We cross some 50m into the east face, where the route scrambles up again. The terrain is unpleasant, crunchy, but not hard to climb. After passing a fine limestone plate the route turns right again, in few turns gains considerable height and hits the SE ridge again. Following the easy ridge directly up we soon see the first cross (the bigger one stands on the fore-summit), reach it, pass it and finally reach also the second, smaller cross on the main summit.

Images

Monte Sernio from Foran da la...On the E ridge of Monte...On the Eastern route to Monte...The only detail, where (on a...Creta Grauzaria from the...Monte Sernio from the east,...Monte Sernio East face normal...