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East Face South

 
East Face South

Page Type: Route

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 39.97968°N / 105.29031°W

Object Title: East Face South

Route Type: Trad Climbing, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.2 (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 3

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Brian C

Created/Edited: Oct 26, 2010 / Feb 22, 2011

Object ID: 674458

Hits: 849 

Page Score: 74.01%  - 4 Votes 

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Overview

This pleasant route is possibly the longest on Hillbilly Rock as it traces its way up the south (left) edge of the rock. This route has also been rated as "classic" by Gerry Roach in his Flatirons guide. Although only three pitches, this route feels much larger. Peering off the edge as you ascend plus the unique vantage point all add up to a unique experience.

Getting There

Follow the approach directions on the main page to get to the east face. The beginning of this route begins on the south (left) side of the rock at the base of a secondary piece of rock that leans up against Hillbilly. Stroll over to the lowest part and rope up.

 
Hillbilly Rock
Almost to the base of P1

Route Description

P1 (5.2) - Follow the rock up (steeper than many other 5.2s nearby) past a notch, until you reach a higher notch where the slab intersects the actual east face of Hillbilly Rock.

P2 (5.2R) - Take a few steps up and look for a place to step right up onto the east face of Hillbilly. The rock is steep and runout here and feels harder than other similar routes of this grade. The first piece of gear is high above you so take a breath and climb. After approx. 130 feet, start looking for a small ledge to belay on.

P3 (4th Class) - From here simply run it out up the much easier slab to the summit. You can choose whether to break left and stay on the true edge or climb a more exciting rib that is higher. The rib feels like the edge and I believe is the intended route.




 
Hillbilly Rock
Looking up P2. He is about halfway.
 
Hillbilly Rock
Looking down the easier terrain of P3 from the summit.

Descent

Sling a large block and make a 60-foot rappel to the north. Follow a faint path down the north side of the rock and down to the Mesa Trail.

Essential Gear

Unless soloing...

A typical Flatiron rack. - We carried a small rack of nuts, hexes and a few tricams. The few places for protection all took passive pieces well.

Rope - A 60M works perfectly.

Water - Steep approach = thirsty climbers!

Long Pants - Trudging through poison ivy may be unavoidable certain times of the year.

Images

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Hillbilly Rock