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rpcRoute Comment

rpc

Hasn't voted

If you avoid the Direct Crack (5.9), you can keep the level at and below 5.6 for the entire climb? Is that right? That is what "Climbing California's High Sierra" claims. How many pitches total?

Much thanks.

rpc
Posted Sep 30, 2002 10:13 am

ScottySRoute Comment

ScottyS

Hasn't voted

If the Direct Crack is avoided, the hardest move becomes the off-width crack at the top of the Staircase (5.6-5.7). When Barry and I did the East Face, we only roped up for 4 pitches, but I think the total would be 16(?).



ScottyS
Posted Sep 30, 2002 2:58 pm

peakjunkieRoute Comment

peakjunkie

Hasn't voted

Agreed - just did it and used the rope for only 250' total - four places:



The start



The solo the washboard up and over and down.



The fresh air traverse

The chimney above the fresh air traverse



Solo the Grand Staircase.



Take off pack - leader free solo the crack with rope on and then pull up packs.



Belay up second then solo to the top on 4th class big blocks.



Yummy!
Posted Sep 30, 2002 8:28 pm

rpcRoute Comment

rpc

Hasn't voted

there's some pretty useful info. in these comments I think - would be nice if it could be added to the main route description page before some of it gets accidentally deleted.

much thanks.

rpc
Posted Nov 5, 2002 1:33 pm

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