East Gruesome : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

East Gruesome is called by Bob Kamps the finest summit the the Conns achieved. It was done first in September of 1959 by the Conns.

Getting There

Park at the Cathedral Spires lot and go up the trail until you take the climbers trail that goes right off of the trail. You then take the 4-5 gully and the route starts about half way up the gully on the left. This is a complex area so you may want a book or a friend who knows the way if you do not.

Route Description

The route starts with a wide crack

and then goes onto a complex face that goes left

and then right around the corner to the crux crack.

Below is a view looking at Kieth who has just made an interesting move to a little outcrop where you start the crux crack below that is a view of the crack from on the ground around the corner. You end up lying it back while peeking around the corner to your right to place gear which is somewhat difficult to place.

It then goes up a steep crack that many people including myself is closer than 10a than 5.8.

We then hung a belay and did the serious business(fairly run out face with poor gear) on the fourth pitch

to a nice crack to the summit.

This is certainly a five star route and should be on most people's tick list if they are serious trad climbers.

Essential Gear

I felt it was nice to have a good variety of wide gear and a lot of slings. I think with good rope management and good use of slings you might be able to do this in two pitches.

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