OverviewThis is the most direct route that can safely be made from the north without encountering seracs. The peak can be climbed in one day from base camp by those already acclimatised although there are ideal camping spots on the col at 5000m for those who want to break the climb in to two days.
The ApproachThe approach is obvious. Just trek towards the mountain across the ABC glacier skirting and jumping across numerous crevasses on route.
From right of the rock buttress pictured to the centre-left of the photo of the above climb the obvious steep slope approximately 200m. Much of the lower slopes are heavily crevassed so the starting point is relatively obvious as it is one of the few breaks. From 200m up traverse right approximately 100m to a broad, relatively steep snow slope which leads to the col east of the summit at approximately 5000m. The snow slope which is around 50 ° may be prone to slab avalanche if not consolidated. This snow slope cannot be accessed directly from the glacier below due to broken up crevasses. Towards the col the gradient increases to around 65° climbing exposed ice immediately before.
From the col the climbing becomes easier. Cross a plateau in a southerly direction and ascend the gentle East Ridge that leads to the summit. The gradient becomes steeper towards the top but never exceeds 45°. A small rock buttress which interrupts the ridge near the start can either be climbed over or detoured around. Before the summit the ridge bears SW. From the summit there are awesome views of the unclimbed Kuk Sar II (6925m), one of the most impressive peaks in the Karakoram.
Couple of ice screws
Couple of slings
Couple of quickdraws if you want to pitch the final section to the col