East Ridge, IV, 5.7

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East Ridge, IV, 5.7

East Ridge, IV, 5.7

Continue scrambling up the ridge itself enjoying views in both directions until you come to an obvious 5th class step with significant exposure to the right side. There is a piton at the base of this step and a small crack that takes a 00 Metolius or small nut. It is somewhat flaring so a cam would work best if you brought one that small. A move or two above that placement and this step is overcome. This was the first time we pulled out the rope, but many do prefer to short rope to this point. East Ridge, IV, 5.7, Mount Temple, Banff National Park, July, 2007
Dow Williams
on Jul 31, 2007 12:05 pm
Image Type(s): Alpine Climbing
Image ID: 318418

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Bazehead

Bazehead - Aug 10, 2009 1:16 pm - Hasn't voted

Pro

Another party of 3 (guides without clients) soloed this step just ahead of us, but care/confidence is required as the consequences of a fall would be serious or fatal.

On Aug 9/2009 there was a pin at the base which could be backed up to make a quick anchor. Then, as you lead the step there is a pin slightly hiden on the left at the crux move. Someone had also rigged a 10ft line from the top to help as a handhold. We did not use it because we didn't know how secure it was (upon inspection is looked 'ok', but I still wouldn't fully trust loose fixed lines).

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Aug 11, 2009 11:16 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Pro

the fixed line should be removed...that is bs, straight out

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