Welcome to SP!  -

East Ridge, IV, 5.7 Climber's Log

Sort By:


[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
Viewing: 1-7 of 7    

huntersleeGreat Climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2014

hunterslee

Fun climb...the mountain reveals itself in steps on this route. We roped up for the little step, which is one small pitch, simul climbed after that till we found the big step. 4 pitches of the big step were pretty straight forward, after which we put the rope away. Key thing on this route is route finding, especially finding the large flake on the black towers, that's the key to the upper mountain- we opted to free solo the 5.4 black tower section, saved some time...13 hours car to car, all in all a fun route in one fantastic play yard! Good view of the route when at Moraine lake.
Posted Aug 26, 2014 6:29 pm

NefsekWhat A Route!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2013

Nefsek

Unreal route. 18 hours car to car. Best and most tiring day of my life.
Posted Sep 2, 2013 9:57 pm

malediaNot call it scramble  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2010

maledia

Great route! we climbed un roped to the big step. Fun climbing moves at the big step. Not straight forward 5.7 with heavy backpacks, slings hanging far left of the ridge, slightly miss leading. Follow the ridge and the most obvious weakness little left of the ridge. The black towers are the crux of the route. Difficult route finding decision making. On top of the big step, scramble up and traverse up and left towards the towers. Do not follow an obvious weakness but continue traversing left towards a towering face with a big overhang. Scramble up and squeeze in a chimney. On the next ledge you will find two pins at the base of a gully. Climb or scramble the gully / weakness. Above on easy ground traverse left on the ledge aiming toward the big overhang on the face and two snow cornices (August 2010) with a rock tower in between. Take the first gully on the right side of the snow cornices, this leads with easy moves 5.4 to the ridge. If it feels harder you are probably off route.
Follow the snow ridge to the top.
We roped up at the black towers for snow and wet rocks, a fall here would have been fatal. Bring some pins and plenty of slings for weather emergency and route variations.
Off route slings are all over the place, don't underestimate the route.

Great respect for the pioneers to follow the entire ridge, including the towers.


Posted Aug 9, 2010 6:41 pm

BazeheadFun route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2009

Bazehead

Fun route with some interesting/challenging routefinding decisions, making for a solid day out in the mountains. We took 14hrs car to car, with delays due to waiting for another party ahead of us at the Big Step, and some moderate routefinding challenges on the Step and the Black Towers.

As noted by others, the rock quality varies greatly - some very nice/solid rock (including quartzite), many loose blocks, nastly dinnerplates, and ample scree marbles on slabs.

Overall one of the better Rockies alpine routes with a wide range of terrain to cover in different styles; scrambling, climbing, and glacier travel. Great views from the top, and an easy descent. Expect to be tired at the end of the day! :)
Posted Aug 10, 2009 1:25 pm

MtnMagicGood route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2008

MtnMagic

Good route, although the rock quality on the Big Step wasn't quite as good as I thought it would be. Got caught in a thunderstorm as soon as we topped out the Black Towers. Quite exciting. Final was beautiful once the storm had passed!
Posted Aug 26, 2008 11:30 pm

pvalchevWicked  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2007

pvalchev

Nice route, once the route finding is sorted out, quite easy and quick... however, committing and can be serious nonetheless. I was off to Assiniboine the next day and then Sir Donald... a week of perfect weather, but tiring!
Posted Aug 3, 2007 10:14 pm

Dow WilliamsAnother 50 Classic with Peter  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2007

Dow Williams

With Peter, felt more like a grand scramble, definitely not sustained like Bugaboo Spire and Mount Sir Donald, other Canadian 50 North American Classics. 10.5hrs car to car…..nailed the route, led pitch 1 and 3 on the Big Step, Peter led #2. Led another short pitch up a chimney at the top of the Big Step and then the north glacier travel....that was about all the rope work we did except for one small step lower down with one piton and one pro placement due to exposure. Courtney met us at the summit via the scramble route within 5 minutes of when we toped out!!!!!!!!!! UNREAL....I swam in the lake below Sentinel Pass.......very cold!
Posted Aug 2, 2007 12:22 pm

Viewing: 1-7 of 7    
[ Return to 'East Ridge, IV, 5.7' main page ]