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East Ridge (Traverse Route from North)

East Ridge (Traverse Route from North)

East Ridge (Traverse Route from North)

Page Type: Route

Location: Northern Areas, Pakistan, Asia

Lat/Lon: 36.71907°N / 74.49142°E

Object Title: East Ridge (Traverse Route from North)

Route Type: Mountaineering

Season: Summer

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: Alpine Grade AD+

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes


Page By: BigLee

Created/Edited: Oct 21, 2006 / Jul 15, 2007

Object ID: 237195

Hits: 2624 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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This is similar to the direct route. The starting point is further east. To reach the col at around 5000m requires a combination of climbing and traversing. The main advantage of this route is that it starts from approximately 100m higher up. The traverse is relatively easy but could be problematic in soft snow. The starting point was also closer to our base camp than the start of the direct route.

The Approach

Approaching our bivi sight at sunset
Close to our bivi sight at the base of Gharhil Sar

We could not find our bivi sight after the climb so I am probably not the best person to be writing about the approach! We started our climb from the south-eastern aspect of the glacier. The starting point was where the exposed ice gave way to glacier hidden beneath morrain on the glacier’s eastern side. We made a bivi camp here beneath the start of the route.

Route Description

North-eastern ridge: traverse route
The route

Climb initially navigating though a couple of large crevasses. These are large and probably impossible to cross if you get your line wrong. Once above them (approximately 300m up) start the traverse right. There are a couple of crevasses to navigate through but the route was straightforward enough. The final section to the col was fairly difficult traversing 55° snow slopes with a steep final step to the col.
Traversing towards the col
Traversing towards the col at around 5100m
Sunrise from the slopes of Ghorhil Sar
View East at sunrise
Ghorhil Sar s summit
Summit from the col (c.5100m)

From the col the climbing becomes easier. Cross a plateau in a southerly direction and ascend the gentle East Ridge that leads to the summit. The gradient becomes steeper towards the top but never exceeds 45°. A small rock buttress which interrupts the ridge near the start can either be climbed over or detoured around. Before the summit the ridge bears SW. From the summit there are awesome views of the unclimbed Kuk Sar II (6925m), one of the most impressive peaks in the Karakoram.

The North-east ridge
The NE ridge

The East Ridge of Ghorhil Sar
The North-East Ridge of Ghorhil Sar
Peter approaching the top of the East Ridge of Ghorhil Sar
Peter climbing the NE ridge of Ghorhill Sar
View towards summt from near the top of the NE ridge
View towards summit from near the top of the NE ridge

Essential Gear

Technical axes
Couple of ice screws
Couple of slings
Belay plate
Couple of quickdraws if you want to pitch the final section to the col


Traversing towards the colApproaching our bivi sight at sunsetThe East Ridge of Ghorhil SarNorth-eastern ridge: traverse routeSunrise from the slopes of Ghorhil SarThe North-east ridge