East Ridge

Approach

Start from the popular Death Canyon trailhead and follow the well-beaten trail west up the canyon for about 3/4 of a mile. At this point (just before the THIRD BRIDGE) a climber's trail - but still well marked and well used - leads north. The trail continues into Stewart Draw, winding along the north side of the creek. Follow the trail to the area below Timberline Lake. At this point the trail seems to die out. Continue up to the lake itself.
From Timberline Lake, pass a 10,696-foot subsidiary peak of Buck Mtn. (which is just east of the peak itself) and scramble to the crest of Buck Mountain's east ridge.

Route Description

The east ridge can be followed directly to the summit. At it's easiest the route is 3rd or 4th class, at it's hardest, mid-5th class. However, the harder sections can easily be avoided, generally by dropping slightly down and south from the ridge. If you wish to make the climb harder, stay on the ridge, where the exposure is best and the moves generally more difficult. Caution on the way down: a lot of lines which seem good from above actually lead nowhere, leaving you cliffed out. Resist the temptation to drop directly to the south, instead parallel the east ridge from below, moving east until you reach the couloir you scrambled up to gain the ridge.

Essential Gear

While this climb can be soloed, you might want to bring a rope and light rack. For winter ascents two ice tools, crampons, and the usual winter gear (not to mention what you'll need for the approach) will be necessary.

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

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