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East route

East route

East route

Page Type: Route

Location: Dolomites/Sexten Group, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.63060°N / 12.31530°E

Object Title: East route

Route Type: Hiking, Mountaineering, Scrambling, Via Ferrata

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Via ferrata

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes


Page By: Bor

Created/Edited: Sep 4, 2007 / Sep 4, 2007

Object ID: 332506

Hits: 2166 

Page Score: 75.81%  - 6 Votes 

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Getting There

Handdrawn map of the...
Handdrawn map of the Paternkofel / Monte Paterno Group.

The route starts at pass Buellelejoch/Forcella Pian di Cengia, 2522m. It is approachable from the hut Rif. Auronzo, 2320m in about one hour and half. This approach goes below the south face of Drei Zinnen, Passportenkopf, 2714m and below the south slopes and face of east ridge of Paternkofel/Monte Paterno, 2744m.

The second possibility is from the Rif. Drei-Zinnen-Huette, 2405m and below the north face of Paternkofel.

The third possibility for reaching the start of this ferrata is from a hut Rif. Comici, 2224m from the east side.

Route Description

On the airy shelves.
Climbing on the shelves.

From the pass Buellelejoch/Forcella Pian di Cengia route goes first in south direction but soon turns to the east. You walk over the rocky and grassy shevles first. The route is very picturesque because of wild towers all around. Soon you cross the south face of Brodenknoten, 2668m and you reach a notch Forc. dei Laghi, 2584m.

From here a harder part starts. First you walk a bit up from the notch and then you come around a narrow ridge where is nice view to Paternkofel. From here you have to cross the airy shelves with help of iron cables. On one way there is also a small wooden bridge.

After the crossing you have to reach the notch Gamsscharte where other routes also come. From here you have to climb some 15 meters high vertical rock, which is well protected by iron cables. After this climbing you have only some easy climbing to the summit.

You descend by the same route or combine any other possibility.

Essential Gear

Good hiking shoes, helmet, self-secured system and head lamp.

External Links

Add External Links text here.


On the east ridge of Paternkofel/Monte Paterno, 2744 m.East route to Monte PaternoThe east ridge from the summit.On the airy shelves.Wild towers of the east ridge.The wall at the Forcella del Camoscio