OverviewThis route is usually crowded, thanks to the easy approach from the "refuge Torino". From the refuge take the indication to the glacier and “Colle del Gigante”.
From the begin of the glacier follow the footsteps that lead to the “Cirque Maudit” and go across the “Col Flambeau”.
The climbers that walk on this way are so many that is impossible to lose it even in the fog.
The route goes down for more or less 150m, bypassing the “Aiguille du Toula”, and after get up for 200m till the flat part of the glacier at the foot of the "Tour Ronde" east side.
The ascent along the east face is preferred to the SSE ridge, because shorter and little bit easyer. Along the route, there aren’t any protection pegs, except for an abseil anchor in the upper part.
It is also used for coming down from other routes. Often used also in ski tour.
It was climbed for the first time in the year 1867 by the english alpinist “Douglas Williams Freschfield”.
The route descriptionThe route on the east face, allows an easier approach to the SSE ridge, above the notch called “Colle Freshfield” 3655m.
The east face in its middle, is covered by a snow slope, similar to a couloirs, that can be climbed only in good conditions when the snow covers almost continuously the slope.
Otherwise is better to avoid this route in the late season when is easy to find rocks outcrops and ice. Due to the east exposure, the snow melts very quickly and the risk of falling rocks is very high.
To reach the base of the slope, first of all try to overcome a bergschrund not always confortable.
Above the bergschrund, climb on easy rock knobs (soil attention!). Higher up the slopes begin with an average steep of 45°, in few places even 50°.
Go through these easy rock without a precise itinerary (II°), choosing whether to stay in the snow (if in good condition), or if case of verglass, stay on dry rocks.
Once the ridge has reached, follow it quite easily, abrupt in the begin and then more and more smooth, to the rocks of the summit.