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East Wall Gully
Route

East Wall Gully

 
East Wall Gully

Page Type: Route

Location: Snowdonia, Wales, Europe

Lat/Lon: 53.10713°N / 4.02533°W

Object Title: East Wall Gully

Route Type: Ice Climbing, Mixed

Season: Winter

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: Scottish Grade I/II

Number of Pitches: 2

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Nanuls

Created/Edited: Jan 5, 2010 / Dec 22, 2014

Object ID: 587085

Hits: 2346 

Page Score: 80.49%  - 12 Votes 

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Overview

The hanging valley of Cwm Cneifion is home to many a wintery delight and what better way of reaching them than by incorporating a route into the approach itself. With 200 metres of Grade I/II climbing, East Wall Gully offers exactly that, and is in fact one of the most straight forward routes into the Cwm. It takes the steep back wall of Cwm Idwal, just to the left of the Suicide Wall, and while the technicalities never approach anything that could be described as challenging, the climbing is quite sustained. As always with Welsh winter climbs, the weather has a great influence on the difficulty and quality of the route; in leaner conditions its character is icier and the climbing more technical, in good conditions the gully gets filled with snow, and while technically easier, can be a real effort to ascend.

Traditionally there has been no culture of claiming the first ascents of winter routes in Snowdonia, so unfortunately, the identities of the first ascentionists of this route are unknown.

Getting There

Cwm Idwal
Cwm Idwal
(Photo by Nanuls)
East Wall Gully
East Wall Gully
(Photo by Nanuls)
East Wall Gully
East Wall Gully
(Photo by Nanuls)

East Wall Gully

Conveniently, Glyder Fawr is located very close to the A5 meaning that there isn't a long approach to the bottom of the route.

There is plenty of parking along the A5 near Ogwen Cottage (SH 648 603), some of which you have to pay for, some of which you don't. My advice is to never bother with the official car parks and just park along the roadside. There is a wide 'pavement' type verge on the southern side of the road that can easily accommodate the width of a car or minibus, and is completely free and never full (even on bank holidays). It also allows you to park even closer to the base of the mountain and the start of the path.

Take the path from the Cottage to Llyn Idwal (SH 645 595). Follow the path along the eastern shore southwards to the start of the route, which is located at around SH 645 589 (see photo ).

Route Description

Pitch 1 (Tech. Grade 2/3; 130m): You can avoid the first pitch all together by traversing in from the left, or Zig-zag up easy angled slabs to a shallow groove that leads to the base of the Suicide Wall. A short and slightly awkward chimney just beneath the Wall will take you to the gully proper.

Pitch 2 (Tech. Grade 1/2; 70m): Ascend the gully directly to emerge at the bottom of Cwm Cneifion.

Essential Gear

If conditions are favourable most will not feel the need to use anything more than a single axe and crampons, however, if conditions are a bit more on the icy side, ice tools, a singe rope and a small rack would be very helpful. This being a gully climb, a helmet is also a very good idea.


Cwm Cneifion (Photo by Nanuls)

Maps

Open Space Web-Map builder Code
Navigation Maps

OS 1:25k Explorer Series OL 17 Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa

OS 1:50k Landranger Series 115 Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa

Harvey Map Services 1:25k Snowdonia: Snowdonia The Glyderau and the Carneddau

Harvey Map Services/BMC 1: 40k British Mountain Map: Snowdonia

Road Maps

OS Road Map 9 Wales/Cymru & West Midlands

Guidebooks

Snowdonia (Official National Park Guide) Snowdonia (Official National Park Guide) by Merfyn Williams with contributions from Ian Mercer and Jeremy Moore

A handy book full of useful information and interesting facts about the National Park.
Welsh Winter Climbs Cicerone Guide: Welsh Winter Climbs by Malcom Campbell and Andy Newton

The only dedicated winter climbing guide to Wales. A bit dated now but nevertheless still relevant. The only problem is finding the right conditions.

External Links

 
Glyder Fawr
The approach
(Photo by Nanuls)
 
East Wall Gully
East Wall Gully
(Photo by Nanuls)

Government Bodies and Official Organisations

Snowdonia National Park Authority

Council for National Parks

Association of National Park Authorities

Natural Resources Wales

CADW

Royal Commission on Ancient & Historical Monuments in Wales

Gwynedd Archaeological Trust

Snowdonia Society

The National Trust

Hiking, Climbing and Mountaineering Organisations and Companies

British Mountaineering Council

The Climbers’ Club

UKClimbing

Plas y Brenin National Mountain Centre

Snowdonia-Active.com

Hightreck Snowdonia

Weather

Mountain Weather Wales

Weather from the Met Office

BBC Weather

Tourist Information

Visit Wales

North Wales Tourism Partnership

Local Information from Gwynedd.com

Local Information from Snowdonia Wales Net

North Wales Index

Travel

Welsh Public Transport Information

UUK Train Timetable

Accommodation

Youth Hostel Association in Wales

Pete's Eats

Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel

Maps and Guidebooks

Ordnance Survey

Harvey Map Services

Cicerone Guidebooks

Climbers’ Club Guidebooks

North Wales Bouldering

Cordee Travel and Adventure Sports Bookshop

Wildlife and Conservation

Joint Nature Conservation Committee

Natur Gwynedd

North Wales Wildlife Trust

Royal Society for the Protection of Birds

Images

East Wall GullyLlyn IdwalEast Wall GullyLlyn IdwalEast Wall GullyEast Wall GullyEast Wall Gully
East Wall GullyEast Wall GullyEast Wall Gully