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Easy rock routes rating (UIAA)
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Easy rock routes rating (UIAA)

 

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Lat/Lon: 46.55886°N / 11.60156°E

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Object Title: Easy rock routes rating (UIAA)

 

Page By: Gabriele Roth

Created/Edited: Feb 15, 2006 / Aug 22, 2008

Object ID: 172495

Hits: 6498 

Page Score: 81.54%  - 14 Votes 

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This is a small table that could give an help to beginners willing to climb some rock route in the Alps (especially in Dolomiti) and have Italian or German guidebooks using UIAA grades.

This chart is limited to the lowest difficulties in rock climbing, as for beyond the IV UIAA only skilled climbers can go, and skilled climbers do not need explanations.

I = First degree

the easiest climb ... there were all (even the best climbers) must use their hands to keep balance
if you can move without using both hands this is not I degree

Rock quality evaluation skill needed

II = Second degree

the real beginning of rock climbing
movements must be done a limb a time
many holds and grips to choose from

Rope can start to be useful

III = Third degree

rock becomes very steep or almost vertical, good holds and grips

Rope teams should move with pitches

a simple comment ...

I've limited my chart for some simple reasons :
beyond the IV UIAA only skilled climbers can go, and skilled climbers do not need explanations, they should have tried :)

On the contrary I've seen many not skilled (or beginners) climbers thinking that they're ready for a III UIAA climb after having climbed simple real I UIAA routes, so that they're going to meet some problems and some risks ...

I can remember when, many years ago, while I was leading 4 friends of mine along the normal route of Pizzo Badile (II UIAA), there where 2 rope teams of beginners that went back at the first chimney saying : "this is a hard route, it is at least IV" : the hardest route they had climbed before was the Canalone Porta to Grignetta ...