| Took the first cabin to Felskinn and arrived at the start of the SSW Ridge around 9 o'clock. I agree with the author of this page that finding the route is the biggest problem. It will probably be a bit trial and error but when you reach the snow saddle, there won't be much difficulties anymore. I think it is important from here, to use a running belay, otherwise it will take too much time to reach the summit and to continue with a traverse to the Mittaghorn. We reached the summit at half past 2 and immediately started searching the chimney in the East Face. It is absolutely necessary to descent in the right chimney, which is marked with a sling. The traverse left back to the ridge is a bit strenuous due to loose rock. Once we reached the crest of the ridge, we climbed in a running belay straight to the Mittaghorn, passing the last gendarm to the right. |
