fubar7500 - Aug 27, 2020 3:28 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2020
descending from Eiger (ascend via south ridge)
West flank in summer is piece of shit, all the way on running rocks (even those with 2 meters size), unstable, hard to find route, hardly to belay...(because of lack of time and 1 broken headlamp) we must bivak in cca 3300m) Now I know why nobody uses this route for descend and that (almost) all climbers rather have guides on Mittellegi route:-)
Climbed Solo to the top. Took the wrong path once leading to a verglassed grade 4 section with a rappel off a snow bollard to get back to the correct path and the other time lead out onto the exposed north face for a 70m snow/ice traverse and a hard down climb.
Climbed with only once ice axe which was enough. A lot more snow and ice than I was really expecting but was fast to descent because of it.
The Bivy is now large enough to have 3 people, The Red bent abseil posts are sometimes quite loose and newer straight posts have been put in and are 20m apart so a 40m rope would be better than a 30m.
I started from the Bivy at 5:45 and reached the summit at 10:00
total time from Kleine Scheidegg was 7:15hrs but would have been faster if I didn't lose about 45min to 1 hour from getting lost.
Descent to Kleine Scheidegg from the top took 4.5hours including repacking my bivy gear on the descent.
Jordanj - Jan 4, 2014 5:36 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2013
Huge Face!
Climbed solo to the summit. Very enduring route!
Water can be a problem regards trying to keep hydrated. Carry more gas or Extra water rations...???
Route finding can be problematic up to about 3660m especially if you encounter early morning verglass.
This is a huge rock but all in all it's a great face puzzle to solve and certainly not as horrid as some have suggested in the past.
markhallam - Jul 21, 2013 9:57 am Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2008
Reached Pt 3668m
Climbing solo I reached Pt 3668m, but with the exposure climbing alongside the north face I chickened out of the last 300m and descended.
Nonetheless, for me this was a landmark climbing experience, bringing me out of 'semi-retirement' - and setting me on course for successful solo ascents of a number of alpine peaks and finally the star prize of Aconcagua in 2011.
fubar7500 - Aug 27, 2020 3:28 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2020
descending from Eiger (ascend via south ridge)West flank in summer is piece of shit, all the way on running rocks (even those with 2 meters size), unstable, hard to find route, hardly to belay...(because of lack of time and 1 broken headlamp) we must bivak in cca 3300m) Now I know why nobody uses this route for descend and that (almost) all climbers rather have guides on Mittellegi route:-)
stenvold - Jul 13, 2015 9:04 pm Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2015
SummitedClimbed Solo to the top. Took the wrong path once leading to a verglassed grade 4 section with a rappel off a snow bollard to get back to the correct path and the other time lead out onto the exposed north face for a 70m snow/ice traverse and a hard down climb.
Climbed with only once ice axe which was enough. A lot more snow and ice than I was really expecting but was fast to descent because of it.
The Bivy is now large enough to have 3 people, The Red bent abseil posts are sometimes quite loose and newer straight posts have been put in and are 20m apart so a 40m rope would be better than a 30m.
I started from the Bivy at 5:45 and reached the summit at 10:00
total time from Kleine Scheidegg was 7:15hrs but would have been faster if I didn't lose about 45min to 1 hour from getting lost.
Descent to Kleine Scheidegg from the top took 4.5hours including repacking my bivy gear on the descent.
Jordanj - Jan 4, 2014 5:36 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2013
Huge Face!Climbed solo to the summit. Very enduring route!
Water can be a problem regards trying to keep hydrated. Carry more gas or Extra water rations...???
Route finding can be problematic up to about 3660m especially if you encounter early morning verglass.
This is a huge rock but all in all it's a great face puzzle to solve and certainly not as horrid as some have suggested in the past.
markhallam - Jul 21, 2013 9:57 am Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2008
Reached Pt 3668mClimbing solo I reached Pt 3668m, but with the exposure climbing alongside the north face I chickened out of the last 300m and descended.
Nonetheless, for me this was a landmark climbing experience, bringing me out of 'semi-retirement' - and setting me on course for successful solo ascents of a number of alpine peaks and finally the star prize of Aconcagua in 2011.