Eiger Climber's Log

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fubar7500

fubar7500 - Aug 27, 2020 3:20 pm Date Climbed: Oct 25, 2020

ascend via South ridge + descent via West flank   Sucess!

great weather, kind of long and dirty climb (ice, snow, slippery rocks), technically fine III-IV UIAA when found the proper way, terrible descent ... West flank is piece of shit, running rocks (even those with 2 meters), unstable, hard to find route, hardly to belay... Now I know why nobody uses south ridge for ascend and westflank neither for ascend nor descend.

JuhoK

JuhoK - Nov 13, 2015 10:07 am Date Climbed: Nov 12, 2015

Heckmair  Sucess!

Nordwand

Woodie Hopper

Woodie Hopper - Aug 6, 2015 4:11 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2015

Mittellegigrat  Sucess!

Climbed with Freddy Grossniklaus who was a super guide. Perfect weather and conditions, relatively fast climb up and down to the Moenchsjochhuette.

Awesome climb in every way; glad I had a chance to do it.

Jordanj

Jordanj - Jan 2, 2014 7:44 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2013

Solo Westflank-Barrington  Sucess!

Great weather until late on with a rather epic descent. Not technically the hardest climbing but huge exposure and the morning verglass plays havoc with the route finding!
Fond memories now I'm back home!

D Watson

D Watson - May 28, 2012 9:18 pm Date Climbed: Nov 9, 2010

The infamous Eiger  Sucess!

Awesome mountain

skotty

skotty - Aug 26, 2011 5:51 pm Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2011

Best so far  Sucess!

Of the 40 or so peaks I've climbed so far, the Eiger by the Mittellegi Ridge was the best so far.

markhallam

markhallam - Dec 29, 2010 12:24 pm Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2008

Solo'd to 3600m on W falnk

Bivvied on a scenic ledge at 3000m then climbed up to 3600m - chickened out of the final 300m, climbing solo.

pablo

pablo - Aug 25, 2009 2:34 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2009

Route Climbed: Mittellegi Ridge  Sucess!

Nico and my brother Gabriel and Jean-Philippe and I started from Mittellegi hut at 5:45am it was cloudy and a bit windy. We reached summit at 9h30am after excellent climbing and sunny conditions. Then we continued to Mönchsjochhütte where we celebrated with beers first and the with bottle of wine in the dinner to celebrate Nico's birthday. An excellent experience and always keeping an eye on the impressive north face.

Jofa

Jofa - Jan 12, 2009 10:30 pm Date Climbed: Feb 14, 1989

Didnt make the summit :-(

Years ago when I was a young lad, I skiied the Eiger area and attempted to get to summit, but weather and inexperience forced me to rethink and turn back... breathtaking

Bart

Bart - Aug 15, 2007 7:55 am Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2007

Mittellegi ridge  Sucess!

After a rather awkward climb over snowy and very wet rocks/scree we reached the excellent Mittellegi hut on Saturday afternoon. Enjoyed an excellent meal and fine weather and got up the next day to climb the ridge in perfect weather. Very enjoyable climb on relatively good limestone with a magnificent snow crest as a finale! Took the NW flank for our descent which I cannot recommend as it's very loose, iced up and routefinding is very challenging. Furthermore the rockfall is terrible! Take the South Ridge instead!

rocket buhl 2 - May 1, 2006 7:12 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2005

West face/rocketbuhl2  Sucess!

My seventh solo in Alps,up and down in twelve hours, it seemed more like half a lifetime.Its not technicly diffuclt, more like the mother of all scrambles,but boy 2000m up and 2000m down,it makes Mont Blanc (normal route)seem like a walk in the park.I didnt enjoy this one at the time but i got some perverse satisfaction along the lines of what doesnt kill you must make you stronger.Anyway bring on Mittelegi!

hansw

hansw - Mar 10, 2006 9:36 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 1996

Route Climbed: Mittellegigrat  Sucess!

We stepped out on the glacier from the railway station Eismeer in rainy weather and arrived at the Mittellegi hut after travelling on wet and slippery rock. Coming morning the weather was good and we set out on the icy Mittellegi ridge. We had some problems at the stiff and frozen fixed ropes but were able to reached the summit at ten. Going down the long west flank makes you feel you have knees. This climb is a 'Once in a lifetime' experience! (August 1, 1996 - being the day of my fiftieth birthday).

Trip Report

Rileywyna - Dec 18, 2005 7:50 am

Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: July 2001  Sucess!

Bivied on the ridge at the start of the Eiger joch. Woke up cold with altitude sickness. Partner didn't have any sympathy for me. After tying into the rope and starting out I felt better, Great day of climbing, clear with beautiful views. Met many guided party's coming over the Mittellegi

RIclimber

RIclimber - Aug 13, 2005 4:12 pm

Route Climbed: Mittellegi Ridge Date Climbed: August 1, 2005  Sucess!

Attempted the Northeast Pillar Austrian Route but retreated due to waterfalls. Did the Mittellegi instead. Great route with great views. Took the South Ridge down in a white out. A long day.

Cautious

Cautious - Jun 23, 2005 9:43 am

Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: July 1999  Sucess!

Nice route, if a little short. Good exposed rock on the the Eigerjochs Traverse. Rotten rock on the South Ridge to summit, making the descent a little precarious. 11 hours round trip.

GlennMerrill

GlennMerrill - Feb 27, 2005 7:42 pm

Route Climbed: Mittellegi Ridge Date Climbed: Aug. 2003  Sucess!

Beautiful! My favorite alpine climb thus far in my climbing career.

mountainmanjohn

mountainmanjohn - Jan 11, 2005 12:49 pm

Route Climbed: South ridge Date Climbed: June 2003

Had a go. But dispite the weather looking OK we only got round to the rige past the South Eigerjoch. What a great place anyway!!

One day soon I suppose we'll just have to have another go. The three of us were in varied states of unwell. . . . . . . . thats my excuse anyway.

cherokee

cherokee - Jun 3, 2004 11:42 am

Route Climbed: SW Flank, West Ridge & Mittellegi Ridge Date Climbed: May 15, 16 and 17, 1977  Sucess!

Can there be any more beautiful mountains as in the Bernese Alps! From May 15th through the 17th, with partner Bill Menning we climbed the easy South West Flank to the Eiger summit, then went down the South Ridge to the Bergli Hut. The next day we went down to the Eismeer Station and over to the South East Face and "played on it a bit" then went up to the Mittellegi Hut. Climbed the Mettellegi Ridge back to the Eiger summit on the morning of the 17th. At this point feeling cocky Bill wanted to climb down the North Face summit fields and try to get some glimpse of the face from that perspective. After 3 rope pitches down we came to our senses and quickly climbed back up.

We did these climbs in preparation to attempt the North Face at a later date.

richgriff - Mar 3, 2004 7:42 am

Route Climbed: Mittellegi Ridge Date Climbed: 19 Aug 2003  Sucess!

Climbed with English guide Jonathan Preston. First alpine summit. Felt quite apprehensive while in excellent Mittellegi hut the night before but perfect weather and conditions allowed for a truly memorable ascent. Descended via South Ridge to stay at the Monchjoch Hutte, and ascended the Monch the next day. Technically no harder than Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis but altitude and history makes it physically and mentally more challenging (and rewarding).

Moni

Moni - Oct 21, 2003 6:30 pm

Route Climbed: Mittellegigrat Date Climbed: 29 July 1983  Sucess!

Climbed with Dres Schild. Good weather and conditions, but in the fog on the summit. Descended via the West Flank.

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