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EMILIUS's 33 ROUTES (Schematic Plan of the OPERA & Various AUTHORS) Fourth Part

EMILIUS's 33 ROUTES (Schematic Plan of the OPERA & Various AUTHORS) Fourth Part

EMILIUS\'s 33 ROUTES (Schematic Plan of the OPERA & Various  AUTHORS) Fourth Part

Page Type: Route

Location: Aosta's Valley, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.67926°N / 7.38524°E

Object Title: EMILIUS's 33 ROUTES (Schematic Plan of the OPERA & Various AUTHORS) Fourth Part

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Page By: OsvaldoCardellina

Created/Edited: Jul 5, 2013 / Dec 4, 2013

Object ID: 855405

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Handwritten in Gimillan on Sep 29th, 2009 and to correct in Martsaouchy Desott on Sep 30th, 2009.

On the occasion of fortieth anniversary of death of Ilario Antonio GARZOTTO and Gianni JUNOD (Mont Blanc - Aiguille Jean Joseph Croux, SE Wall, Ottoz Route; on Sep 29th, 1969).

Ilario Antonio GARZOTTO
Punta Ilario Antonio Garzotto
Gianni JUNOD


THIS OPERA consist in 13 PARTS (Edit in SUMMITPOST 1/13: A,B,C,D,E,F,G,H,I,L,M,N,O):

IDEALIZATION, by Osvaldo CARDELLINA, Apr 01th, 2009 until Feb 25th, 2010.

Edit. in SummitPost.org Jun 01th, 2009.

Texts, by Osvaldo Cardellina, Apr 01th, 2009/Feb 25th, 2010;

Bibliography and privates informations, by Osvaldo Cardellina, since Apr 2009 until Feb 2010;

Tracks routes in photos, by Osvaldo Cardellina, Jun 01th, 2009;

Mail of the colours, by Osvaldo Cardellina, since Dec 2009 until Feb 25th, 2010;

Post of page, by Antonio Giani, Jun 01th, 2009;

B&W or basis photographs (n° 4), by Antonio Giani, Jun 01th, 2009;

Three Landscapes of the Group: by Emilio Bertona, Sep 14th, 2010 and Oct 02th, 2010.

Mountains colorpictures, by Antonio Giani, Dec 14/17/18th and 24/30th, 2009, Jan 03th, 2010 and Feb 05th, 2010 and Osvaldo Cardellina (various).

Action photos, by Osvaldo Cardellina, Ilario Antonio Garzotto Collection, Gianni Junod Collection, Adolfo Giulio "Dulo" Ourlaz Collection, "Angelino" Bozzetti Collection, Pietro "Piero" Rosset Collection, Ezio Marlier Collection, Emilio Bertona Collection, Maurizio Castellan Collection, Camillo Roberto Ferronato Collection, Danilo Garzotto Collection, Flavio Zulian Collection, Elio Saluard Collection, Baptiste Pieiller Collection, Alberto Sciardi Collection, in severals various times.

LONG-TERM PLAN of the OPERA: (Ending Feb 25th, 2010). Entire Revision-Editing since Sep 05th until Sep 18th, 2010, by Osvaldo CARDELLINA.


Routes important for difficulty (23).
Landscapes of the Group by EMILIUS.
Part/A: Synthesis historical mountains name (Books and Maps).

SECTOR TWO or second PART in SP "(33 ROUTES of M. EMILIUS Marathon Tours & Other Things (Second Part)".

Part/E: 144 HONEUNDRED "QUARANTAQUATTRO" TIMES THE VAULT OF HEAVEN OF AOSTA CITY (Partial History of Cross, Tours, Minitours and or basis routes in Mount Emilius and Group). 85 "Marathon" Crossing, 25 Tours, 14 Minitours + 1 MiniMysterious and 20 or basis routes.
Part/F: The beautiful, smart and safe route of Mount Emilius (NE ridge and N Edge (Arête des Trois Curés or Three Abbots Crest).
Part/G: The East Face, of tragedy wall. Formerly integrated in Part/B, Part/C, Part/D and Part/E.
Part/H: The East and South Ridges, normal routes from Grand Brissogne, Gimillan and Pila. Formerly integrated in Part/B, Part/C, Part/D and E.
Part/I: The Southerns Slopes and Walls. Integrated in Part/B, Part/C, Part/D and E.
Part/L: SW Buttress, Spurs and W Arête Old Route and Via Ferrata 2004. Integrated in Part B, Part/C, Part/D and Part/E.
Part/M: North Wall and Black Triangle. Integrated in Part/B, Part/C, Part/D and Part/E.
Part/N: History of Bibliography .Integrated in Parts A,B,C,D,E and F.
Part/O: Mount Emilius Baby's (Under 14 years, Emilie's Argentier Age). Integrated in Part/B, Part E and Part/F.

SECTOR THREE or third PART in SP "(EMILIUS 33 ROUTES HISTORY Climbings Scrambles & Ascents (Third Part)".

Part/B: Synthesis in chronological order of ascents, climbs and humans, naturals, extraordinary facts, events and phenomenons in Mount Emilius Mountain Chain - known, observations and private informations).
Part/C: Synthesis in chronological order of winter ascents and climbs and Noteworty ascents in springtime (well - known and privates informations).
Part/D: Synthesis in chronological order, SOLO, ascents and clims (well-known, private informations and Bibliography).

SECTOR FOURTH or fourth PART in SP "(Schematic Plan of the OPERA & Various)".

SECTOR FIVE or five PART in SP "(Synthetic Tables of First Ascents-Winter-Traverses-Solitaries & Other)".

SECTOR SIXTH or sixth PART in SP "(Ten SUMMITS for Ten Great TRAVERSEs)".

SECTOR SEVEN or seven PART in SP "(EMILIUS's GROUP 33 for Old Classic Normal Routes & Other)".

SECTOR EIGHT or eight PART in SP "(33 routes EMILIUS's The MODERN MAGIC ERA Eight Part)".

SECTOR NINE or nine PART in SP "(33 Emilius's All Routes & Variants Traced Nine Part)".


in PURPLE: Ten Crucial Routes, extraordinary phenomenons and eight "Kabbala";
in RED: climbs, ascents, human facts and events, personality, characters and cast; a groups of rope climbers;
in GREEN: Mountains Chains, Summits: naturals events, toponimic distinghing features and topographic surveys;
in BLUE: in winter ascents and climbs; noteworty a trip to the mountain at the beginning of Spring and in late Fall. Lakes and Glaciers;
in BROWN: Books and Maps, detailed bibliography, privates informations, connections, reports and remarks; adress and coversations by writers and protagonists. B&W photographs, snaps, pictures, color photos and action.


In this regard Considerable "Reading Room" published in SP related to EMILIUS



Emilius, by marco979, livioz; Edit. Apr 23th, 2001.
Emilius Normal Route from Pila; "My Routes", by marco979; Edit. Oct 23th, 2003.
Becca di Nona, by Maria Grazia s; Edit. Apr 10th, 2004.
Punta di Arpisson, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Apr 18th, 2005.
Punta Garin, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Oct 20th, 2005.
Monte Emilius GROUP, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Feb 15th, 2006.
Punta Rossa dell'Emilius, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Aug 23th, 2007.
Punta di Leppe, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Sep 02th, 2007.
Via Ferrata, by buxlex; Edit. Sep 24th, 2007.
Punta de la Pierre, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Dec 22th, 2007.
Testa Nera, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Dec 28th, 2007.
Mont (Tour) Grauson, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Jan 12th, 2008.
Grande Roise, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Jan 30th, 2008.
Punta della Valletta, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Feb 07th, 2008.
Becca di Salé, by Antonio Giani; Edit Mar 26th, 2008.
Becca di Seneva or Le Cordagne, by Antonio Giani; Edit. May 05th, 2008.
Such a shame! "Apartheid" in Charvensod; "My articles", by buxlex; Edit Sep 07th, 2008.
Views of Monte Emilius, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Apr 25th, 2009.
All routes (40) of Peak Garin by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Sep 09th, 2009.
Mont Ross di Comboè, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Sep 14th, 2009.
Punta di Laures, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Nov 12th, 2009.
Punta Ilario Antonio Garzotto, by Antonio Giani; Edit Dec 18th, 2009.
Punte Gianni Junod by Antonio Giani; Edit. Jan 02th, 2010.
Punte del Lago Gelato, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Jan 13th. 2010.
Testa Blantsette, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Jan 22th, 2010.
Mont Perè Laurent, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Jan 26th, 2010.
Emilius's in the SUMMIT and Surroundings EMOTIONS & SUGGESTIONS First Part; by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Mar 11th, 2010.
F)- GREAT PARADISE or MOUNT ISERAN/ THE GRIVOLA - RIGHT SIDE Sixth Part; by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. May 28th, 2010.
Try positioning the CROSS on two Gianni JUNOD POINTS (3300m), failed for hard snowy storm, by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Sep 12th, 2010.
Mont des Laures, by Antonio Giani; Edit. Sep 22th, 2010.
EMILIUS's, my Refuges, Bivouacs, Alps & Occasional Shelters; by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Oct 26th, 2010.
Folklore & Funny Histories & Tales between "Becca" & Emilius & Alentours I°; by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Nov 11th, 2011.
Punta del Dard or Waterfall's Point (2033m) also Becca de R(i)en, by Osvaldo Cardellina & SalVal; Edit. Jan 12th, 2012.
Folklore ... & Funny Histories & Tales Curtain II°; by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Mar 21th, 2012.
Folklore & ... Funny Histories & ... Curtain III°; by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. May 24th, 2013.
Folk ... & Curtain IV° (Personalities & Characters); by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. May 24th, 2013.
Curtain V° (Particular Deep & Strong Personalities); by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jun 29th, 2013.
Curtain VI° (Emilius's Future Generations); by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jun 29th, 2013.
Curtain VII° (Ridges & Walls); by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jun 30th, 2013.
CURT ... VIII° Lochs Lakes Ponds & LEGENDS First Part; by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Jul 30th, 2013.
CURT ... IX° Lochs Lakes Ponds & LEGENDS Second Part; by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Aug 05th, 2013.
CURT X° Walls, Faces & Crests of the Surroundings; by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Aug 30th, 2013.
CURT XI° Over there to the Graian Southeast - First Part; by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Sep 06th, 2013.
CURT XI° Over there to the Graian Southeast - Second Part; by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Sep 06th, 2013.
Emilius & Surroundings EMOTIONS & SUGGESTIONS Second Part; by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Oct 02th, 2013.
Travel from all the Summits of "GRANPA"; by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Oct 29th, 2013.
H)- Southern RANGES WALLOONS & VALLEYS Summary; by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Nov 02th, 2013.
AOSTA VALLEY Southern Orographic and Hydrographic VALLEYS & WALLOONS-First Part; by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Nov 24th, 2013.
H)- Southern RANGES Summary; REWORKED PAGE. By Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. Nov 24th, 2013.




EMILIUS SE Face (right); S and-SW Faces over Frozen Lake, Standard Route & Others from Pila or Gimillan and Arbolle Walloon, by Emilio Bertona.


This exhibition of photos of the proposed action, starting clockwise from "Crest of the Three Capuchins" universally known as the Normal Route, a little "taste" of all the ridges and walls topographically belonging to the Mount Emilius. Fairly regular pyramid with four ridges and the same faces is abnormal in its structure, such as the Black Triangle, large vertical wall and rocky, going to "stick" between the North and East Walls (sui generis of the Great Angle Pillar into Wall Brenva to Mount Blanc), while in the East and South ridges are linear, sudden or steep (the North-northeast Edge or "Crest of the Three Curates", which represents the margin East of the Triangle.) in the West down the long West Ridge (now well known since 2004 and popular "Via Ferrata") which, after the Little Emilius is directed, almost in a straight line, the Red Mount of Comboé, mighty big shoulder with three faces: one to the North of the great Northern Wall of Emilius conclusive and another steep and rocky , between the Carrel Hill and Ròss Pass, falling over reddish moraines overlying the Valé's Tableland and the path alleging Federigo Zullo Bivouac (existing since 1984). A third is made ​​up of a South side is not too steep coming down with a rock band mixed with moraine above the "Ponds of Boulders" in the West (as well as me baptized for the gigantic boulders that "float" in the narrow waters), the largest Frozen Lake. From the Mount Ross of Comboé the West Ridge splits: one branch goes Northwest to the Federigo Bivouac Carrel then get up to the Hill to form the Becca of Nona, dividing the wild Walloon of Arpisson from the high of Comboé/Plan Valé, while the second is facing in the opposite direction, ie to the South-southwest, and, after the Ròss Pass, stretches into the Walloon and the Refuge Arbolle. We'll call it, then, Buttress S-SW, the street gets up first to form the Points of the Frozen Loch, a second pass, in practice never crossed except by hunters, said Col de Comboé and finally a trident rocky said, in fact, Trident of Comboé. This long (endless if followed to the Emilius) and jagged ridge is dividing between the Walloons and the Comboé to Arbolle, up to the highest part of this last.
The walls are facing South and Southwest with a gentle slope from the "Crest of the Three Capuchins" gradually sweeps westward, doubling in two faces at a large rocky outcrop that rises up to the West Ridge, near a characteristic gray wall. That's right, most facing South, it is easier and ground, at least in the medium to high crisscrossed by a large snowy rocky couloir, which ends on a steep rocky beam to form the plinth base. The left one is shaped by a complex rock salt in which a small gully with rocky soil and is easily identifiable for a long vein of white quartz (Via Giuseppe Corona of 1875).

S-SE Crest, W-SW Face, NW Ridge, N Wall, E-NE Edge above Arbolle, Comboé & Arpisson Walloons, by Emilio Bertona.

Formed the Mont Ross, North precipitates a high Wall up to 680 meters wide and over a kilometer, with a spur-shaped big udder, which is outlined in the lower split the two Glaciers Western and Eastern over the Arpisson's Walloon, of the same name, at its Eastern end stands the imposing dark Black Triangle with its 400 meters of vertical rock culminating at the top with a big "cannon" cantilever of about ten meters. This "predicts" the great leap vertical wall of the East, more than 500 meters above the Glacier of Blantsette into Walloon of The Laures. Its margin-left is the East Ridge, after a rocky promontory on which has been placed a cross, called the Charrey, in memory of the misfortune of '29 on the East, and steep climbs fairly easy coming a few steps South of the Peak . This ridge is also know as "Crest of Brissogne" as it is the normal route for the residents of this town. Between this and the "Crest of the Three Capuchin" high salt, regular and triangular wall above the tiny Icy Lake and in the direction Lake Dessus or Upper of the Laures, also called "Lac Dzacquin", crossed in the middle by several rocky channels at its base stands an imposing bastion of rock band entirely, constituting the difficult entrance door to it, consists of two parts with a slope completely different.
This mini roundup-summary roundup of various Authors, may be useful in forming an idea of ​​the topographical conformation, as well as in the composition of climbing routes, keeping in mind that the fundamentals are in fact 10 Routes (See First Part of 33 ROUTES), to which we have wanted to add 2 more, having material available, meaning the South Slope and the South-southwest Buttress. For a more detailed and comprehensive view of the same refer to individual pages edited in SP, possibly using the General Framework of the Opera, here above, to constitute a valid, but not full account track.

Northern Walls from left or East: Black Triangle, Mount Emilius and Little Emilius from Becca of Nona (3142m), by Osw


Quest'esposizione di foto di azione propone, partendo in senso orario dalla "Cresta dei Tre Cappuccini" universalmente conosciuta come Via Normale, un piccolo "assaggio" di tutte le creste e le pareti topograficamente appartenenti al Monte Emilius. Piramide abbastanza regolare con quattro creste ed altrettante facce presenta delle anomalie nella sua struttura, come il Triangolo Nero, grande parete verticale e rocciosa, che va ad "incollarsi" tra le Pareti Nord ed Est (sui generis del Grand Pilier d'Angle sulla Parete della Brenva al Monte Bianco); mentre ad Oriente ed a Mezzogiorno le creste sono lineari, repentine o ripide (lo Spigolo Nord-nordest o "Cresta dei Tre Curati", che costituisce il margine Est del Triangolo). Ad Occidente scende la lunga Cresta Ovest (attualmente dal 2004 molto conosciuta e frequentata "Via Ferrata") che, dopo il Piccolo Emilius si indirizza, quasi in rettilineo, al Mont Ròss de Comboé, poderosa Spallone con tre facce: una verso Settentrione conclusiva della grande Parete Nord dell'Emilius ed un'altra ripida e rocciosa, compresa tra il Colle Carrel ed il Col Ròss, cascante sopra le rossicce morene soprastanti il Pian di Valé ed il sentiero adducente al Bivacco Federigo Zullo (esiste dal 1984). Una terza é costituita da un versante Meridionale non troppo ripido che cala, con una fascia rocciosa frammista a morena, sopra i "Laghetti dei Macigni" (così da me battezzati per i ciclopici massi che "galleggiano" nelle ristrette acque) ad Ovest del più grande Lago Gelato. Dal Mont Ròss di Comboé la Cresta Ovest si sdoppia: un ramo discende a Nordovest verso il Bivacco Federigo al Colle Carrel per poi rialzarsi a formare la Becca di Nona, divisorio il selvaggio Vallone dell' Arpisson da quello alto di Comboé/Plan Valé; il secondo invece é rivolto in direzione opposta, ovvero a Sud-sudovest, e, dopo il Col Ròss, s'allunga verso il Vallone ed il Rifugio di Arbolle. Lo denomineremo, quindi, Contrafforte S-SW; per istrada si rialza dapprima a formare le Punte del Lago Gelato, un secondo valico, in pratica mai attraversato se non da cacciatori, detto Col de Comboé ed infine un tridente roccioso, detto, appunto, Trident de Comboé. Questa lunga (interminabile se percorsa sino all'Emilius) e frastagliata cresta é divisoria tra i Valloni del Comboé e quello di Arbolle, fino alla parte più elevata di questo ultimo.
Le pareti sono rivolte a Sud e Sudovest con un versante che dalla "Cresta dei Tre Cappuccini" digrada progressivamente verso Ovest, sdoppiandosi in due facce presso un grande sperone roccioso risalente fino alla Cresta Ovest, nei pressi di un caratteristico muro grigio. Quella di destra, maggiormente rivolta verso Sud, é più facile e frantumata, almeno nella parte medio alta, solcata da un grande canale roccioso-nevoso, che termina sopra un ripido fascio roccioso tale da formar lo zoccolo di base. Quella di sinistra é costutuita da una complessa parete rocciosa all'interno della quale sale un esiguo canalino roccioso con terriccio ed é facilmente individuabile per una lunga vena di quarzo bianco (Via Giuseppe Corona del 1875).

N-NE Edge, E Wall, E Crest, SE Face, S-SE Crest over Dessous, Long & Dessus Lakes in Les Laures Walloon, by Osw.

Formato il Mont Ròss, a Nord precipita una muraglia alta fino a 680 metri e larga oltre un Km., con uno sperone a forma di grande mammella, che si delinea in basso a dividere i due Ghiacciaietti Ovest ed Est dell'Arpisson sopra l'omonimo vallone; alla sua estremità Orientale si erge imponente lo scuro Triangolo Nero con i suoi 400 metri di roccia verticale culminanti in vetta con un grande "cannone" a sbalzo d'una decina di metri. Questo "preannuncia" il grande salto della verticale Parete Est, di oltre 500 metri sopra il Ghiacciaio di Blantsette nel Vallone delle Laures. Il suo margine di sinistra costituisce la Cresta Est che, dopo un promontorio roccioso sul quale é stata posita una croce, detta dei Charrey, a ricordo della disgrazia del '29 sulla Est, sale abbastanza facile e ripida arrivando a qualche passo a Sud della Vetta. Questa cresta é inoltre conosciuta come "Cresta di Brissogne", poiché costituisce la Via Normale per gli abitanti di questo comune. Tra questa e la "Cresta dei Tre Cappuccini" s'eleva un'alta, regolare e triangolare parete sopra il minuscolo Lago Ghiacciato ed in direzione del Lago Dessus des Laures, detto anche "Lac Dzacquin", solcata nel mezzo da diversi canali rocciosi; alla sua base si erge un'imponente bastione roccioso che la fascia interamente, costituendo la difficile porta di ingresso alla medesima, formata da due parti con pendenza completamente diversa.
Questa mini carrellata fotografica, di varii Autori, può essere di utilità nel formare un'idea della conformazione topografica, nonché nella composizione delle vie di salita, tenendo presente che le Vie Fondamentali sono in effetti 10 (Vedi Prima parte di 33 ROUTES), alle quali ne abbiamo voluto aggiungere altre 2, avendo materiale a disposizione; ovvero il Versante Sud e il Contrafforte Sud-sudovest. Per una più dettagliata ed esaustiva visione delle medesime rimandiamo alle singole pagine editate in SP, eventualmente utilizzando il Quadro Generale dell'Opera, qui sopra esposto, tale da costituire una valida, ma non completa traccia.


(List clockwise starting from the S-SE Crest of the "Three Capuchins" Route or Normal)


S-SE Crest of Three Capuchins Pila 1823, Gimillan or Les Laures (Ménabreaz Refuge), by Corvus.

S-SW Slope up Frozen Lake, route from Pila, Arbolle Walloon, Gelato Lake 1994, by Roy Cardellina.

S-W Face up Boulders Ponds, routes from Pila and Arbolle Walloon 1986, by Danilo Garzotto.

SW Buttress and W Ridge from Pila, Arbolle Alpage 1974, by Camillo Roberto Ferronato.

W Slope Ròss Pass, S-SW & W Ridges from Pila, Comboé Walloon 1977, by Camillo Roberto Ferronato.

W-NW Ridge or Via, actually, Ferrata from Pila, Carrel Pass 1976, by Osw.

N Wall New Routes, "Mixed Route" and "Mammellone Route" from Peckoz Shelter 1942, by Ourlaz Family.

N Wall first absolute, "Left Pillar" from Pila and Comboé Alps, Peckoz Shelter, 1926 & 1927, by Lino Binel.

N Wall "Direct Route" from Pila, Carrel Hill, Arpisson W Glacier 1980, by Camillo Roberto Ferronato.

N Wall "Superdirect Route" from Pila, Carrel Hill, Arpisson W Glacier 1984, by Camillo Roberto Ferronato.

Black Triangle first "A. Bozzetti-P. Rosset Route" from Comboé, Hill, W & E Glaciers 1960, by ? Pétey.

Black Triangle NW Face "Senza Parole/Bocconi Amari" from Federigo, W & E Glaciers, by Ezio Marlier 2006.

N-NE Edge "Three Curates" from Pila, Carrel Hill, (first from Les Laures 1906) & 1976 (Integral), by Osw.

E Wall "G. Gervasutti-R. Chabod 1935" from Laures, Blantsette Glac. first repetition 1946, by Franco Garda.

E Wall New "Right Route" from Ménabreaz Shelter, Blantsette Glacier 1969, by Renato Quendoz.

E Crest from Ernesto Ménabreaz Ref. at the Laures, Charrey/Norat Cross (1902 Route), by "Gigi" Gadin.

SE Face from Ménabreaz Refuge at the Laures Lower, Long and Upper Lakes 1988, by Osw.