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Energy Crisis
Route

Energy Crisis

 
Energy Crisis

Page Type: Route

Location: Western Cape, South Africa, Africa

Lat/Lon: 32.45°S / 19.27000°E

Object Title: Energy Crisis

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: 20 / 6a+

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: ben jammin

Created/Edited: Apr 28, 2002 / Apr 28, 2002

Object ID: 156406

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Route Description


"Energy Crisis" is one of the great classics of Wolfberg and is a mindbending testpiece for the aspirant hard-man or woman.

The route follows a wandering line up the wildly overhanging "Energy Crisis" prow, and its outstanding features are:
  • The 5m long layback crack on the first pitch. Difficult to protect if you don't have a really big cam (#5 camalot size), also exceptionally difficult to get established in the layback due to the undercut start of the crack (unless you know the cunning "trick"!).
  • The very airy traverse on pitch 4 across a good handrail, which is unfortunately completely undercut and offers very few footholds.
  • The awesome headwall on the last pitch, which climbs an exposed face on small crimpers with sparse but adequate protection.

    This route featured in a BBC documentary series "The Face: Six Great Climbing Adventures", where local legend Ed February teamed up with Joe Simpson to pose for the cameras and show off their climbing skills.

    See one of the guide-books for a detailed description of the route and the breakdown of the pitches.

    Approach


    Start from the Sanddrif campsite at the base of Wolfberg and walk up the mountain via the track through the "Valley of Red Gods". The walk in takes about 45min to 1hr.


    Essential Gear


    A standard trad rack.

    A #5 camalot is required to protect the crux layback crack on the first pitch.

    Images

    The "Energy crisis" prow at...Pointing out the Energy...Looking straight up at the...Ok... it\'s a bum shot, but it...Hand traverse on pitch 4 of...The super elegant exit from...