***ENFER DOUX (GLETSCHHORN SPUR)
Spur summit altitude: mt. 3170
Climbing length: 220 mt.
First ascent: Yves and Claude Remy 1985
Starting point: Tatsch mt. 2270 (parking)
Hut: Albert Heim Hutte SAC m. 2541
Gletschhorn shows in its left part an obvious spur of first-rate granite, projected to Tiefengletscher, named Gletschhorn Spur. Enfer doux (Sweet hell) is a little "pearl” by Remy brothers rising on this red buttress: you can climb in a superlative environment over perfect rock. “Enfer doux” reddish granite has surprising intrusion of extra-white quartz.
From Andermatt, a little town at St.Gotthard northern exit, take the road to Furkapass, reaching Hotel Tiefenbach along the road. A few hundred meters past the hotel follow on the right-hand side a gravel toll road leading to Tatsch parking m. 2270 (camping not allowed).
Enfer Doux report
***Enfer Doux report (French Scale)
Quick parties can climb the route in a long day directly from Tatsch parking; otherwise it’s possible spend the night at Albert Heim Hutte SAC (Swiss Alpin Club) m. 2541, open in summer. From Tatsch a good trail leads to Albert Heim Hut (one hour); to reach directly the route, at a marked forking don’t follow the trail to the hut on the right, but continue straight, then walk towards left between big blocks, rising along the moraine and reaching a big cairn (“ometto”) near Tiefengletscher’s beginning. Rising along the glacier towards right, after about 15 minutes of easy walk, an obvious orange spur departing from Gletschhorn summit ridge is clearly seen on your right-hand side (2,15 hours from Tatsch).
Enfer Doux starting point is situated below a big white quartz intrusion, on the spur’s left section ; the route on the right is “Little Chamonix” (6b). The route is equipped with spaced bolts. Grade in French Scale.
L1 - Climb a little corner, then easier rocks – some iron big pegs, once at the starting point, now above, in consequence of the glacier’s strong retreat – to a belay into a curious quartz niche (4a).
L2 – Climb straightly a slab, then slantways toward right, finally a little crack (5c).
L3 – Long slantways toward left to a beautiful corner; climb the corner to its end (5c).
L4 – Towards left go round an edge, then straight up climbing a slabs, then a crack to a stance over a ledge with some blocks. Move towards left along the ledge, reaching a dihedral-crack. Stance below the crack (5a).
L5 – Up along the crack to a little ledge. Belay in the right end of the ledge (5c).
L6 – Climb the wall rising along little cracks, then slantways towards right to a slab. Straightly along the slab (5a).
L7 – Climb some thin cracks on the right, then a clean crack, ending below the reddish final slab, which leads to the spur’s summit (5c+).
Descent: abseiling along the route
Essential GearRope: 2 x 50 mt., helmet, ten quickdraws. Nut: 4-8 Friends: 1-3
HutALBERT HEIM HÜTTE mt. 2541 - SAC SEKTION UTO
ALBERT HEIM HÜTTE
ALBERT HEIM HUT