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Eole Danza per Noi

Eole Danza per Noi

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Eole Danza per Noi

Page Type: Route

Location: Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.98313°N / 7.03254°E

Object Title: Eole Danza per Noi

Route Type: Mountaineering, Sport Climbing

Season: Summer

Time Required: A long day

Rock Difficulty: 5.10a (YDS)

Difficulty: TD sup., UIAA VI+

Number of Pitches: 11

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes


Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Jun 19, 2011 / Oct 20, 2016

Object ID: 723032

Hits: 3228 

Page Score: 89.77%  - 30 Votes 

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Eole danza per noi

On the stunning South-West face of Aiguille de La Varappe, an awesome peak lying on the Swiss side of Monte Bianco, runs a superb route with first-class red protogyn granite, overlooking a beautiful glacial environment. It's "Eole danza per noi", a challenging climb sustained on 5c/6a and partially equipped (all belays and some bolts along the route).

On Plateau du Trient towards the Fenetre de Saleina
On Plateau du Trient towards the Fenetre de Saleina

Saleina Glacier and Aiguille d'Argentiere
Saleina Glacier and Aiguille d'Argentiere

Getting There

Approach to Cabane d'Orny

From Champex mt. 1466, a small village near Martigny, reach La Breya mt. 2188 by chair-lift. From here a good trail leads to a wide grassy terrace. Cross the flat terrace, then rise up along a steep slope. Follow the upper moraine, finally reaching Cabane d’Orny SAC. The hut is situated in a very nice position, overlooking Orny Glacier and Petit Clocher du Portalet and near a small lake (Lac de l’Ancient Cabane).

Sunset over Petit Clocher du Portalet
Sunset on Petit Clocher du Portalet
 Aiguille de la Varappe SW face
Aiguille de la Varappe SW face
View from Eole danza per noi
View from Eole danza per noi
Skirting the South-West face
Skirting the South-West face
Red granite pillars
Red granite pillars on Eole danza per noi

Approach to Aiguille de la Varappe

From Cabane d’Orny m. 2831 follow the trail to Cabane du Trient, reaching the Orny Glacier and then the Orny Col . From here gain the flat Trient Glacier (Plateau du Trient) and cross the glacier walking towards SW; after surrounding a rocky ridge entering the glacier, gain a small saddle named Fenêtre de Saleina. Go down on the opposite side of the saddle heading to Aiguille de la Varappe South-West Face; you must skirt SW face near the base of the rocks. To find “Eolo” starting point you have to look to an obvious triangular pillar, then you must reach a sloping corner situated about 50 mt. on the right hand side of the line starting from the top of the triangular pillar. “Eolo” is the first route you meet skirting the face, after reaching a rocky saddle named Fenetre de Suzanne (about 2 hours and a half from Cabane d’Orny).

Eole Danza per Noi report

Eole Danza per Noi

Summit altitude: m. 3515
Difficulty: TD sup., F6a
Equipment: some bolts, friends are needed to complete the equipment along the pitches
Climbing length: 380 m.
Exposure: SW
First ascent: Michel Piola, Laurent Monnet, Pierre Gravante 1990
Starting point: Champex mt. 1466 (parking); chair – lift to La Breya (8.00-17.00)

Eole - Aiguille de la Varappe
A belay on Eole granite pillar

Eole Danza per Noi report (French Scale)

L1 – Climb the sloping corner, 4b
L2 - Towards right near some big flakes, then up along a cracks’system to a good stance over a terrace. 5c
L3 - Climb slantways to left. 5c
L4 – Over the top of a small tower, then down in the opposite side. 6a
L5 - Up the crack in the right hand side of the ridge, leading to a good stance. 6a
L6 - Climb a superb rubbish corner 6a
L7 – Towards left then straightly to reach a corner. 6a
L8 – Straight up over the belay to gain the corner; up along the corner, then climb a pillar 6a

Aiguille de la Varappe, Eole
First pitches

Aiguille de la Varappe: unmistakable corner on Eole
Unmistakable corner on Eole

Gazeux Abseil, Aiguille de la Varappe
Gazeux Abseil

L9 – Move towards left, then climb some cracks. 6a
L10 – A great tiring pitch up along the unmistakable corner situated left from the main ridge. 6a
L11 – Towards right under a roof, surrounding an edge and gaining the top. 6a

Descent: abseiling the route. The first two abseils are not lying along the route, but directly from the summit on the pillar edge. After the first four abseils you’re gaining a gully; scramble down the gully towards left – facing out – reaching the first belay of the route “C’est Mozart qu’on assassinè”. Final 25 mt. abseil.


Cabane d Orny
Cabane d'Orny

- Cabane d'Orny m. 2831 SAC (Swiss Alpine Club “Les Diablerets”)
Situation: Swiss side of Mont Blanc Group - Left shore of Orny Glacier, between two little lakes
Open: open all year long, guarded in summer from 10.06 to 20.09
Size: 90 persons + 30 in the winter-shelter
Guardians: Patricia and Raymond Angeloz - Pradurand 1991 Salins
Hut's phone : 0041 277831887

- Cabane du Trient m. 3170 SAC (Swiss Alpine Club “Les Diablerets”)
Situation: Swiss side of Mont Blanc Group - Col d'Orny
Open: from middle March to middle May and from middle June to middle September
Size: 140 persons + 40 in the winter-shelter
Guardians: Mélanie & Olivier Genet Rte du Coteau 29 1927 Chemin-Dessus
Hut's phone : 0041 277831438

Essential Gear

Rope 2 x 50, helmet, nuts 3-9, friends 1-3, ten express, axe and crampons essential for the approach along the glacier

Red Tape

No particular restrictions in climbing and mountaineering

When to climb

Best season goes from July to middle September.


Webcam Tele Champex
Meteo Wallis
Meteo Chamonix


Aiguille de la Varappe map


"Schweiz Plaisir West" by Andreas Mürner – Edition Filidor, 2012

"Schweiz Plaisir West" by Jurg von Kanel – Edition Filidor

"Entremont Escalades" by Olivier Roduit, 2011

"Guide du Valais - du Trient au Nufenen" by Hermann Biner, 1996


IGN 3630OT Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Swiss National map 1:25 000 Sheet 1345 Orsières

Swiss National map 1:50 000 Sheet 282 Martigny

External Links




Sunset on Petit Clocher du PortaletEole - Aiguille de la VarappeVarappeAiguille de la Varappe, EoleTowards Fenetre de SaleinaMont Blanc red granite on Aiguille de la VarappeCabane d\'Orny
View over Saleina GlacierAiguille de la Varappe, red pillarsSaleina Glacier and Aiguille d\'ArgentiereOn Aiguille de la VarappeAiguille de la VarappePointe Fourche Aiguille de la Varappe: unmistakable corner on Eole
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