Eole Danza per Noi : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost

Overview

Red pillars - Photo Silvia Mazzani

From Eole view on Saleina Glacier

Eole danza per noi

Summit altitude: m. 3515
Difficulty: TD sup., F6a
Equipment: some bolts, friends are needed to complete the equipment along the pitches
Climbing length: 380 m.
Exposure: SW
First ascent: Michel Piola, Laurent Monnet, Pierre Gravante 1990
Starting point: Champex mt. 1466 (parking); chair – lift to La Breya (8.00-17.00)

Huts: Cabane d’Orny SAC (Suisse Alpin
Club) “Les Diablerets” m. 2831 Guardian Raymond Angeloz - open from 15 June to 20 September, 90 beds
Cabane du Trient SAC (Suisse Alpin Club) m. 3170, 140 beds

Bivouac: Biv. L’Envers des Dorèes mt. 2980

A superb route with first-class red protogyn granite running on Aiguille de La Varappe SW face and overlooking a beautiful glacial environment. Sustained on 5c/6a and partially equipped (all belays and some bolts along the route).

Getting There

From Cabane d’Orny m. 2831 follow the trail to Cabane du Trient, reaching the Orny Glacier and then the Orny Col . From here gain the flat Trient Glacier (Plateau du Trient) and cross the glacier walking towards SW; after surrounding a rocky ridge entering the glacier, gain a small saddle named Fenêtre de Saleina. Go down on the opposite side of the saddle heading to Aiguille de la Varappe South-West Face; you must skirt SW face near the base of the rocks. To find “Eolo” starting point you have to look to an obvious triangular pillar, then you must reach a sloping corner situated about 50 mt. on the right hand side of the line starting from the top of the triangular pillar. “Eolo” is the first route you meet skirting the face, after reaching a rocky saddle named Fenetre de Suzanne (about 2 hours and a half from Cabane d’Orny).

Saleina Glacier and Aiguille d Argentiere

Aiguille du Chardonnet seen from Aiguille de la Varappe

Walking on Plateau du Trient towards Fenetre de Saleina - Photo Silvia Mazzani

Eole Danza per Noi report

"Gazeux" abseil

Unmistakable corner

Eole Danza per Noi report (French Scale)

L1 – Climb the sloping corner, 4b
L2 - Towards right near some big flakes, then up along a cracks’system to a good stance over a terrace. 5c
L3 - Climb slantways to left. 5c
L4 – Over the top of a small tower, then down in the opposite side. 6a
L5 - Up the crack in the right hand side of the ridge, leading to a good stance. 6a
L6 - Climb a superb rubbish corner 6a
L7 – Towards left then straightly to reach a corner. 6a
L8 – Straight up over the belay to gain the corner; up along the corner, then climb a pillar 6a
L9 – Move towards left, then climb some cracks. 6a
L10 – A great tiring pitch up along the unmistakable corner situated left from the main ridge. 6a
L11 – Towards right under a roof, surrounding an edge and gaining the top. 6a

Descent: abseiling the route. The first two abseils are not lying along the route, but directly from the summit on the pillar edge. After the first four abseils you’re gaining a gully; scramble down the gully towards left – facing out – reaching the first belay of the route “C’est Mozart qu’on assassinè”. Final 25 mt. abseil.

A belay on Eole granite pillar

First pitches - Photo Silvia Mazzani

Huts

Cabane d’Orny SAC (Suisse Alpin Club) “Les Diablerets” m. 2831 Guardian Raymond Angeloz - open from 15.06 to 20.09, 90 beds
CABANE D'ORNY

Cabane du Trient SAC (Suisse Alpin Club) m. 3170, 140 beds
CABANE DU TRIENT